Trip report part 2

[joellybaby]

Tulum trip report part 2

If you missed it here's part 1 (http://www.tulum.info/showthread.php?t=982)

Day 2 Deliberate inactivity

We slept so well, swathed in our mosquito net at Hamaca Loca, and awoke late feeling peaceful. The waves lapped gently at the shore and the sun already felt warm.

Now it's light I should describe Hamaca Loca. This is a very special spot. It's down the south end of the surprisingly long beach road, near to the Boca Paila arch to the Sian Ka'an reserve. Down here the beach is completely perfect, absolutely white and turquoise and so quiet. Most of the time our only company was the occasional sea fishing pelican or wader bird. All the accommodations round here are small scale and inviting, with traditional thatched palapa roofs and hand painted wooden signs amongst the jungle trees marking their entrances. None of your vast fortress like entrance gates here like those we saw on the way south from Cancun. Towards Hamaca Loca though it seems to get even quieter. From the beach at night this was all the more apparent. Nowhere is brightly lit, but light seemed to stop completely about 300m north of HM and it remained very dark along this stretch.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/229/512999886_3756f94de3_o.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joellecleveland/512999886)
Hamaca Loca beach and sign. Crowded huh?

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/229/513032739_a38711098f.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joellecleveland/513032739)
Beach road sign

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/226/512999366_a9ce1133bd.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joellecleveland/512999366)
Kitten family at reception

About Hamaca Loca
Hamaca Loca itself has only 3 cabanas with a double bed in each. La Tortuga, where we stayed, and El Caracol are both fairly large and face the sea. There's one smaller one whose name I forget right now, not right on the sea but pretty near. All of them are surrounded by jungly plants and the whole area is just sand - no real open central area or walkways through it as at most places. This means it all feels very private, very quiet, very idyllic in a getting away from it all sort of way.

The owners (French?) who live on site (lucky them!) are friendly and helpful, but not around all that much. With only 3 cabanas they don't exactly maintain a 24hr staffed reception. Unless you count the dog and the family of tiny kittens. We booked in advance via email and paid a deposit on Paypal, which was easy. Our cabana cost $95 USD per night total, which compares very favourably with other cabanas of this standard. They were laid back with sign in (what sign in?) and payment when we were there. There is a small (3 tables) dining room where breakfast can be done on request. Apparently a restaurant will open around November, but I got the impression this was to be in the same small dining room, so I don't think it will alter the peaceful atmosphere. The room was cleaned and swept very thoroughly by a maid who's beautiful small son played quietly as she worked.

Unwinding, we found ample time to enjoy the real strengths of Hamaca Loca, the wonderful cabana and the even more heavenly beach. Sitting out on the deck in front of La Tortuga, overlooking the crystal clear water, it was hard to believe we were really here. I can give you some facts about the cabana but it's these pictures that really tell the story. La Tortuga is a large cabana, longer than it is wide, which has four main sections. The front facing the sea has a decked area with a canopy, with two wooden recliners. Through the sliding doors you enter the main living area, with a table, a low table and a day bed which we pretty much buried beneath our luggage and clothes. There are windows all around, most of which open and have a mosquito screen, as do the sea-facing doors. At night it was good to keep these open and allow in the sea breeze and the sounds of the waves. The windows have curtains of that lovely colourful striped traditional fabric. I keep wishing I'd bought some of that home with me! There is a step up to the bed area, which also has bamboo blinds you can lower to screen it from the living area. The bed was large and comfortable with fresh white sheets and a mosquito net hanging from the ceiling. Several wooden shelves line the 3 quarter height wall which separates the bedroom from the bathroom, accessed through an opening with a striped curtain. The bathroom was clean and the shower was good. It took some remembering to use bottled water for teeth brushing and to put toilet paper in the bin, as everywhere along here the eco-water treatment means paper is not allowed down the drain. Beside the sink is a power socket for shaving, the only one in the cabana and useful for charging camera batteries. The shower provided hot water all day, slightly brackish but very pleasant nonetheless. I loved the blue paint and the sea shells set into the plaster of walls and window sills. The cabanas don't have electricity all night but I didn't notice what time it went off so it must have been quite late. Maybe midnight? Oil/citronella lamps and matches were provided - very atmospheric. One thing missing at HL is safes - I hear these are to be fitted for next high season. This didn't feel a particular problem to us though as it did feel so remote. Crime rates in Tulum are fairly low. Safes will be good for peace of mind though as a holiday can be thoroughly spoiled by stolen money, passports and tickets but ours, and our laptop all survived fine.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/194/512999840_5a06d2611f.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joellecleveland/512999840)
Adam relaxing on the veranda. Oh to be back there!

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/204/513032887_4b96304490_o.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joellecleveland/513032887)
Inside La Tortuga

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/195/512999436_0f32ce5cc4.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joellecleveland/512999436)
The shower

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/207/512999592_1d2938d2c8_o.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joellecleveland/512999592)
Heaven on earth, with La Tortuga on the left. Those wooden recliners belong to Hamaca Loca.

I would highly recommend Hamaca Loca if you are looking to really feel you have got away from it all. If you don't have a car though, and if you want to explore on foot, you may find it rather isolated so do think about this when you're deciding (and compare with my soon-to-be-written description of our otheraccommodation nearer the other end of the beach road).

....

[joellybaby]

So, back to the deck of La Tortuga and our first morning in Tulum. I felt like I could stay and gaze out at the sea for an age but soon our stomachs reminded us that some brunch might be a good idea so we headed north up the beach to see what we could discover. There are plenty of places to eat, but down here they seem fairly spread out as there are stretches of jungle, and quite a few privately owned buildings. We paddled along through the surf at the edge of the sea, watching the birds dip in and out of the water and marvelling at the quintessential honeymoon paradise that seemed almost unreal it was so nice.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/218/513037655_16648665a0_o.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joellecleveland/513037655)
Walking north from Hamaca Loca

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/224/513033403_8816432f01.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joellecleveland/513033403)
Mmmmm Tita Tulum. Burrita, guacamole and cold cervesa.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/207/513033467_c7082e4248.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joellecleveland/513033467)
Lugubrious lizard at Tita Tulum

Brunch found us at the cafe at Tita Tulum where a young waiter wearing surprisingly numerous layers of clothing considering the temperature furnished us with delicious guacamole ($55 pesos), simple ham and cheeseburrita ($60 pesos), some beers and some water (not enough water perhaps, as you will see. I learned the hard way that for me a ratio of two waters per beer was best in the daytime). We sat a long time by that flowery table cloth, peering through the trees to the sea watching the huge black butterflies dart about. It's a nice setting for a simple little cafe. We were joined for a while by a massive lizard, but he seemed far too lugubrious to bother with those butterflies.

Eventually we got active enough to walk back down the beach to sit on our veranda some more. Really, it was such a lovely spot we had to make the most of our chance to sit there. On our way we passed a sunbathing girl as brown as a nut. I don't understand these blondes who actually tan. What must it be like to have skin that actually changes colour?? Weird! We had a bit of a swim in the warm sea. More honestly, a we had a bit of a bob up and down in the waves, nothing approaching energetic here! Once you walk out a little way into the water and float with your head just above the surface, your entire field of vision is entirely filled with turquoise. Magic.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/217/513037721_8b31285aec_o.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joellecleveland/513037721)
Beach south at Hamaca Loca

Veranda. A good book. Warm sunshine. Wonderful sea and a wonderful husband. That pretty much covers the rest of the afternoon.

Stomachs once again reminding us we can't literally sit and do nothing all day, we showered and set out in search of dinner. Our plan, since we didn't have phone reception to call one, was to walk north on the beach road until a taxi passed which we could flag down to go into the pueblo for dinner and more supplies. After all, there seemed to be quite a few around the previous evening. We walked and we walked. Many large trucks passed and several taxis going south but we had no luck.

By the time we reached Ana Y Jose hunger had got the better of us so we decided to stop there and eat. It was a good choice. It's rather luxurious and very well designed place, but still quite relaxed, with nicely laid out paths running back to an atmospheric sand floor restaurant under a huge palapa roof. We got a table at the far side and the blind was raised to reveal a view out to the sea. It was relatively lively, though only about 5 tables (30%) were full. There were a lot of staff about, but despite this the service was 'easy paced' with a lot of them seeming to stand around doing nothing.

I have to own up to something here. I amused Adam by taking photo after photo of food to post on the Tulum forum and since I came back I managed to delete quite a few from my computer as I forgot I hadn't uploaded them to flickr. Very silly. So, you will have to imagine for yourselves my fish 'Sian Ka'an' with it's mango and coriander sauce and the artful but unidentified fruit, all artfully arranged on a large square plate. Adam's beef and shrimp fajitas cooked in beer were delicious. Kind of brown and sizzly to look at. Both mains were $180 pesos. We also had a rather strange but very refreshing watermelon soup with mango ice cream ($50).

Another experience of the evening was the mariachi band that came by and played and sang to every table in the restaurant. They were obviously making their way along all the restaurants on the road. This is something I don't get. Had they been playing on a stage or in the corner that would be one thing, and quite nice, but having them come and play 'just for us' Adam and I found really uncomfortable and embarrassing . And then we felt bad about not tipping them even though we hadn't wanted them to play for us, preferring that the earth just swallow us up there and then. Probably their rather odd choice of covering Abba's 'Fernando' in Spanish didn't help endear them to us, but to be honest I felt similarly to when some bloke comes and tries to flog you a wilting rose when you're just trying to have a nice dinner. Most Brits I know would feel the same way. Is this a cultural thing? Should we lighten up? Or does that kind of thing bug you as well? Who knows.

Day 3 Forced inactivity

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/230/512999738_e2e7a3bbe6_o.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joellecleveland/512999738)
Stunning sunrise

On the third day I woke up early, hopped out of bed and took a picture of the rather wonderful sunrise, and hopped back into bed again to sleep some more. Some time later I woke up again, now feeling very sick. This was not fun. It was very much like a bad hangover, but without the fun boozy part that usually precedes them. I think what it was was a migraine, brought on by heat and dehydration (I had been drinking quite a lot of water, but not quite the gallons I apparently need in this weather). I was very pale and feeling very weak, and spent the day reading a page or two of my book then having to rest as this tiny effort had tired me out. Adam, bless him, was very worried about me and got a lift into town with theHamaca Loca owners, returning with gallons of water, fruit, chocolate, a cooler full of ice and some weird electrolyte peach rehydration drink. It's not easy to rehydrate yourself when you keep being sick though unfortunately. For all Adam's worries I was sure I was alright as I've had migraines like this before though not quite so extreme, so I was confident it would be gone by the next day, and luckily I was right.

All together not much to report on this day. I read an entire book in lots of short bursts. I slept a lot and well. I mused on how if I had to be to ill to go anywhere for a day there were far worse places to be stuck. We had been meaning to go to the Friday party at Mezzanine tonight but nevermind. It rained a fair bit in the evening anyway.

Tomorrow: feeling bright again and moving to La Conchita.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/221/512999606_87f5bca34c_o.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/joellecleveland/512999606)
Peace, quiet, and a pelican

[PhyllisB]

LOVE IT!!!!

That's it, I'm headed to HL in November..... :)

Thanks Joelly, this is excellent. You're a wonderful writer. We spend our Tulum vacations very similarly, hanging out on the beach, reading good books.... seems hard to really WRITE about that, but you've done a great job! What books did you read while you were there?

Phyllis

[austxdan]

Great job Joelle. Sorry you missed the Mezzanine party, but now you have a reason to return. And I'm glad you were feeling better by the next day.


Dan

[minniemex]

And then we felt bad about not tipping them even though we hadn't wanted them to play for us, preferring that the earth just swallow us up there and then. Probably their rather odd choice of covering Abba's 'Fernando' in Spanish didn't help endear them to us, but to be honest I felt similarly to when some bloke comes and tries to flog you a wilting rose when you're just trying to have a nice dinner. Most Brits I know would feel the same way. Is this a cultural thing? Should we lighten up? Or does that kind of thing bug you as well? Who knows.

I have to say, I find it the same that you did - we have a Mexican restaurant here that does the same thing - I wish they would just go away!! I love your description & humor - cracked me up!!http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/36/36_1_21.gifhttp://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/26/26_9_1.gif

Sorry you lost a day to a migraine - but like you say, what better place to suffer??

Keep up the great reporting!!http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/3/3_3_20.gif

[joellybaby]

now you have a reason to return.

So many reasons!

Thanks for the encouragement everyone!

Phyllis - I'm trying to remember what I was reading. For me the best holiday reads are quite easy reading and entertaining, but with more to them than total popcorn novels. I really enjoyed Jasper Fforde's (http://www.jasperfforde.com/) inventive books about Thursday Next, literary detective - they are basically crime thrillers but set in a parallel literary world and full of clever word play and in jokes about characters from novels. Also comedian Dave Gorman's (http://www.davegorman.com/) 'Are You Dave Gorman?' and the 'Googlewhack Adventure' which are kind of travel writing in that he travels the world and meets lots of people, but on nonsense kind of adventures. He's funny and irreverant, like the kind of bloke you'd want to go to the pub with.

[AdGuy]

JB...another great installment and the pics were to die for! I completely agree with you on feeling uncomfortable when the waves of musical stalkers swarm. I've found a simple "no gracias" before they arrive sends most of them onto the next table.

I did question your comment on the bed situation at HL..."all the cabanas have a double bed". I thought they had at least a Queen (maybe even a King) bed plus a smaller bed...correct?

[joellybaby]

I did question your comment on the bed situation at HL..."all the cabanas have a double bed". I thought they had at least a Queen (maybe even a King) bed plus a smaller bed...correct?

You're right. I just mean big enough for two people as I'm not sure I'd notice the difference. Thinking about it ours must have been queen size - because the mossie net slopes in at the sides you do need a bit more room to be really comfy. We also had a single bed / day bed. That didn't have a mossie net but I assume if you were planning for someone to sleep in it you could borrow one.

[procrastinet]

I did question your comment on the bed situation at HL..."all the cabanas have a double bed". I thought they had at least a Queen (maybe even a King) bed plus a smaller bed...correct?

Caracol has two twin beds pushed together to make a Queen-ish bed. They added a twin for our son. I was glad to hear, JB, that you fell into your "comfy" bed in Tortuga on Day 1 - the one(s) in Caracol were pretty much... how to put this delicately... un-good.

Great trip report! Sorry for your lost migraine day, and the lost pictures obsessively documenting the food. Looking forward to hearing about the rest!

[AdGuy]

the one(s) in Caracol were pretty much... how to put this delicately... un-good.


I love that! Now, I gotta figure out how to work it into a client's next ad campaign!! :D

[lazydog]

Great report, I am waiting to see the next part. Selfish of course as La Conchitas is where I have booked!

[SassyGirl]

Joelly

I am totally enjoying your report. Sorry to hear you got sick, though!

[AdGuy]

SassyGirl...great sunglass photo...well done!! http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/28/28_1_19.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZNxmk762YYUS)

[JD_in_NY]

My girlfriend's concern is that it's TOO isolated, and also worries about it being too far from anything we may want to do. She also tends to think *worst case scenario* and being native NYC'ers, we tend to feel weird when things are too desolate.

I guess our main concern would be proximity to food. My gf doesn't want to have to jump in the car every time we want to go somewhere and eat. Any words of wisdom here? How long of a walk was it to get food? I don't mind a bit of a walk, but we're going to be there in June...I'm getting hot just thinking about it!

On a side note, I'm quite looking forward to checking out the ruins and the biosphere while we're there. = D

[PhyllisB]

Hey JD, and welcome! You might want to post the Q on the main forum where you're likely to get a few more responses.

I don't think HL is all that isolated anymore, but it depends on if you want to eat at a different spot every single night or not. There are several cabana places right nearby (so you'll see a few people around) but many don't have full restaurants open to anyone.

Are you willing to drive to dinner a few times? Just not every time? Dos Ceibas is in walking distance, as is Las Ranitas (both about a 5-10 minute stroll). I don't think either are particularly cheap options, however. Amansala has a cute little bar/eating area with a VERY limited menu (apps, and "chicken" or "fish") and that is probably also walkable (maybe 10-15 mins?). I think one of the new places is near here as well--Om or Ocho, I don't remember which, and they have a restaurant. Casa Magna isn't too far from HL either, and I think they have an open-to-anyone restaurant.

So there would be a few options nearby, but you might still want to hop in a car once in a while for a little variety (and because the food in town is so much cheaper, it makes things much easier on the budget).

You could probably also get all the way up to Tita's with a 20 minute leisurely stroll. She's got a good restaurant with some good breakfast options.

[procrastinet]

Hi JD:

My wife and I are also from NYC (now Brooklyn), and while we have been susceptible to the desolation-skittishness that you're talking about, you won't feel it at HL.

We honeymooned in the BVIs, and our second week was on Anegada, an island with 200 people total population, and our villa was out at the end and was the only one open while the others were being built. There was nobody within at least a half mile of us, except one wandering bull. And yes, somehow, instead of enjoying the solitude like I had expected, we were a bit creeped out each night.

Hamaca is on a narrow little property, maybe 40 feet across, with quiet but active properties on either side. So you never get that middle-of-nowhere feeling. The two meals we walked to were at Dos Ceibas - perfectly good, if not cheap. Mostly we drove places, though, partly as an excuse for me to drive around in our Jeep.

Town-and-back driving is at least an hour long proposition, though - one night I ran out for burgers (from a lady with a cart in town - amazing every-topping burgers for about $2) and it took me most of two hours. That's more because of traffic and speed limits (and topes) than real isolation, but HL is at the southern end of the main beach strip.

Whatever you decide, you won't be disappointed. Enjoy! (And thanks for posting a question that was so close to home for me, as it were, that it dragged me out of my tulum.info hibernation!)

- RJ