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AdGuy
8th January 2007, 11:30 AM
For the first two days of this report, please click: http://www.tulum.info/showthread.php?t=555 (http://www.tulum.info/showthread.php?t=555)

For days three and four of this report, please click: http://www.tulum.info/showthread.php?t=561 (http://www.tulum.info/showthread.php?t=561)

Dia Cinco – Monday, December 11: After another night of rain, we awoke to (drum roll please), more rain! Coming from the Sunshine State, this was a bit of a drag. Jen and I tend to suffer Seasonal Affect Disorder (SAD) if we go more than a day without sun. Under normal circumstances this would have been depressing…but we were in Tulum…and scheduled to spend the next seven hours on a guided Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve tour!

We decided upon a quick breakfast right at Tita Tulum. Typically, we try not to eat at the same place twice (we had dinner there our first night) but our tour was scheduled to pick us up at 9:00 and almost all restaurants didn’t open till 8:00. As the restaurant opened, we dodged drops from our room to the table – all of 20 steps – and reviewed the menu.

Our waitress took our order (huevos rancheros and a huevos motulenos) and headed off to the kitchen. We noticed a dignified woman heading our way…could it be the famed “Tita” of Tita Tulum? Yes, it was! Though I was sure she was coming over to chastise us for our childish behavior throughout the week, she introduced herself and welcomed us to her property. She was pleased that we were staying seven nights (I think most only stay three to four then move on to another location) and verified our stay had been comfortable. For those wondering, I can confirm that the owner is as nice as the property.

After polishing down a large and delicious breakfast (we justified we need the calories for all the hiking, swimming, and climbing we’d soon be doing) we headed back to our room to grab our stuff. Right on time, our guide (Ben) showed up and we headed down the bumpy five kilometer road from Tita Tulum to the Centro Ecologico Sian Ka’an (CESiaK) ecotourism and educational outpost in the Sian Ka’an. During the twenty-minute trek, Ben shared a wealth of information about the history, flora/fauna, and geography of the preserve and outlined the plans for the day.

Before I get too far into the day, let me explain that CESiaK was created in 1998 to encourage local understanding and support for the conservation of the Sian Ka’an reserve. Currently, 750 local students learn about the surrounding environment in addition to working on projects for its conservation. The organization also offers small-group tours (limited to 12 individuals), accommodations, and a restaurant. For more information, check them out at http://www.siankaan.org/index.htm (http://www.siankaan.org/index.htm).

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I mentioned the maximum group size is twelve. Due to the rain, we had a whopping THREE folks (including Jennifer and me). Our only other companion was Sue, a fascinating individual who quit her job as a school teacher in England, sold her car, and was traveling the world with just a large backpack for an entire year. I’m amazed at people like this who can take such a bold step to accomplish their dream! As we waited at the CESiaK office, we swapped travel stories but quickly realized we were outmatched.

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We head down to our 23 foot, open-air boat and tour the lagoons of Caapechen, Boca Paila, and Chunyaxche. Ben points out the underground cenotes, points out birds, crocodiles, and fish, take us to a small Mayan temple, and offers the three of us the chance to float down a freshwater canal. I was really looking forward to this but I couldn’t persuade the women to do this (too cold they claimed) and so passed. With that, we headed back to the restaurant to change into dry clothes and enjoy a Mayan meal (complete with tequila)!

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After a late lunch, we head back towards civilization. Typically, the tour offers a swim in a local cenote, but due to the weather (constant rain) it was postponed. Ben invited us to come back when the weather was better and points out how to get there. INSIDE TIP: Actually, anyone can swim there. As you’re facing the Sian Ka’an arch (looking into the reserve), look for an interpretive path through the woods to your right. Follow the path and you’ll end at the cenote…but jump in the water quickly as the mosquitoes can be pretty bad. Around 3:30 we arrive at Tita Tulum and say goodbye to all, making sure to tip Ben very well.

Though the weather was bad, we really enjoyed the day. The total cost (including lunch) is only $68/person and you’ll likely see and experience a lot. There are only three guides…hopefully, you’ll be lucky enough to get Ben, as he’s enthusiastic about his work and his passion for nature is infectious.

After showers, we decide to head into town to grab some baked goods from La Casa del Buen Pan. For those looking for a small, authentic Mexican bakery this is the place! While there’s a bigger spot right on the main street (Pan del Carmen), I’d recommend you seek this hidden spot out. They have fantastic, fresh-made breads, rolls, and pastries…plus, a secluded courtyard that you can take your delectable discoveries and enjoy them in a wonderful atmosphere. INSIDE TIP: Make sure you bring small peso coins/bills as they sometimes have a tough time breaking large amounts…and they consider a $50 peso bill (less than $5USD a LARGE amount!). By the way, they’re at the corner of Calle Alfa and Calle Sagitario which is about two blocks west of the main highway, near the ADO bus station. You’ll know you’ve arrived in heaven when you see…

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We knew we wanted to hit the road right first thing tomorrow morning to arrive at Ek Balam as early as possible. We also realized we were a tad hungry right now and knew any baked goods had little chance of making it back to the room in one piece. As a result, we decided to buy “extra rations” so we wouldn’t have to stop for breakfast (isn’t it amazing how you can rationalize just about anything if you put your mind to it?). We grabbed up some rolls, pastries, and just-out-of-the-oven macaroons (let’s all say it together…YUM!) and headed back to Tita Tulum to get ready for our dinner reservations at Posada Margherita.

AdGuy
8th January 2007, 11:34 AM
Being in Tulum at low season spoils you. No lines…your pick of any table…eager vendors willing to lower prices quickly…no reservations required, just show up. Except at Posada Margherita. This is a restaurant that is ALWAYS hopping and REQUIRES reservations. We had stopped by one afternoon a few days ago and made ours for 7:00 tonight and felt fortunate to get them. We saw several couples arrive during our dinner without making a reservation, only to be turned away. It’s that popular…and deservedly so.

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The rain had finally moved on leaving behind a nice breeze that swayed the white tapestry-like, cloth walls. The restaurant was packed (and remained that way throughout the evening) with adult couples and foursomes enjoying their meals and conversations. The owner of the restaurant, a young Italian gentleman passionate about food and quality, greeted us and acknowledged our reservation. He allowed us to sit wherever we wanted…the choice was easy as there were only two available tables.

I’d love to show you a picture of their menu and wine list…it doesn’t exist. Not that I didn’t have my camera with me, but that the menu is in the mind of the owner. He arrived at out table, sat down and asked us what we’d like. This was both intriguing and unsettling. As for wine, I said we enjoyed full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignons. He nodded and wrote something down on his notebook. He then offered five or six meal possibilities (each sounding better than the rest) but no mention of salads, soups, or appetizers. Jennifer quickly decided upon the shrimp pasta. All of the choices sounded amazing but I focused on the fish in sea water with pine nuts and roma tomatoes. Before I could order it, the owner said “and you want the fish, yes?” Good thing I’m not a professional poker player!

Within minutes our wine arrived along with an incredible appetizer assortment. The huge wooden bowl contained an assortment of nuts, cheeses, breads, olives, and vegetables. Besides being delicious, it’s also FREE!! It was a lovely way to start the meal and accompanied the wine nicely.

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After polishing off the appetizer tray, we started a conversation with a lovely couple from Michigan. They stay at Posada Margherita once a year and eat several meals (breakfasts and dinners) at the restaurant during their stay. They mentioned they’d never had anything but great meals there and the accommodations were wonderful. In addition to Tulum, they travel extensively (just coming back from three weeks in Vietnam) and enjoy good food. Their recommendation gave us high hopes for the meal to come.

Our meals arrived right on cue and we took the first bite…fantastic! Both of us felt we had made the perfect choice but, upon sharing a bite of the other person’s meal, determined it would be hard to make a bad selection at Posada Margherita.

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Towards the end of our meals, we noticed the staff reorganizing tables. They were preparing for a large party (14 members of a touring dance troupe). Upon their arrival, the vibe of the restaurant shifted from trendy, romantic chic to crazy, high-school prom. The service took a noticeable downturn but we were able to snag someone to request our bill. Okay, remember there was no wine list or menu? We now realized we had NO idea just how much that bottle of wine or dinner entries cost. We also understood, like many Tulum restaurants, they only took cash. We actually knew this ahead of time and had about $2,000 pesos on us, so we didn’t think we were going to be washing dishes. Still, we were unsure what this great experience was about to run us. We were pleased to see it was right in line with many meals to date, coming in around $850 pesos.

After paying, we headed to the car (enjoying the DRIPLESS sky) and headed back to Tita Tulum. Knowing tomorrow would be both an early and long day (traveling to and touring Ek Balam, then visiting Valladolid, and returning to Tulum for dinner) so we decided to gather everything we’d need before heading to bed.

AdGuy
8th January 2007, 11:37 AM
Dia Seis – Tuesday, December 12: Arising after a sound sleep (no rain all night), we awake to a beautiful sunrise. After quick showers, we grab our backpacks and head for the rental car. During the two hour trek, we ate pastries, reviewed maps/guidebooks, and planned our day. Today was also a special day in Mexico…Dia de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe (Day of the Virgin Guadalupe). Several of the small towns we traveled through were celebrating by shooting off fireworks, holding special religious services, and small festivals. In addition, several believers participated in numerous cross-country pilgrimages…

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We arrived at Ek Balam around 9:30 in the morning. Thankfully, we didn’t get lost (thanks to great maps) and were the first to arrive. Our guide later told us the new, large parking lot was part of a $1,000,000 improvement to the entrance road, enlargement of the parking lot, and construction of a restaurant. The frustrating part is the money could only be used for these projects (pretty unnecessary) and not for additional restoration of the ruins (very necessary). It was a bit spooky being the only car in the lot.

We entered the ruins, paid admission (24 pesos each), and hired a private guide for 200 pesos. I’ve mentioned before but I think it’s worth saying again…GET A GUIDE. Your experience will be SO much better. For the next two hours, Juan shared the history of Ek Balam, details on the Mayans, and fine points of the architecture and artwork that make these ruins so incredible.

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During our time with Juan, we pretty much had the place to ourselves…maybe six other folks across the entire area. We remained an additional hour to explore the remaining buildings and watched the colorful birds and butterflies that surrounded us. Having been to several ruins (Coba, Chichen Itza, Chacchoben, Tulum, El Rey, San Gervasio), we’re happy to say we now have a new favorite!

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As we finished exploring, a busload of Cancun tourists showed up so we knew it was our time to head out. We jumped in the car and decided to detour a couple kilometers to the town of Ek Balam. We read several of the town citizens sold hammocks and we thought we’d check it out. Let’s just say it wasn’t much. Here’s their town square, complete with some of their citizens...

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We decided to head to Valladolid for lunch, shopping, and exploring. We parked at the main plaza and headed to one of the city’s most historic and best restaurant, El Meson del Marques.

AdGuy
8th January 2007, 11:39 AM
Located in a 17th century hacienda, this restaurant sits in a gorgeous courtyard with flowering trees and beautiful fountains. We started with guacamole (made tableside) and ordered two local specialties: Escabeche de Valladolid (a type of chicken stew) and Longzniza de Valladolid (regional sausage). The food was very authentic, absolutely delicious, and very affordable (the most expensive meal was around eight dollars).

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Next, we did some serious shopping with the local artisans set up around the plaza. INSIDE TIP: You can find some fantastic embroidered items, wood carvings, and natural jewelry for next-to-nothing. We were able to purchase 30 hand-embroidered coasters for nurses that work with Jennifer for less than seventy cents each. We also found a shark’s tooth necklace for our young pet sitter for under two bucks.

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We then ventured out to check out some of the local marketplaces. After covering a couple of miles I noticed my Tevas were starting to give out. Fortunately, we passed a sandal maker who had set up shop in a tent near Cenote Zaci. Minutes later, I had a new pair of sandals for 150 pesos. They were better than my Tevas and cost much less…I was thrilled but now wished I had picked up a few additional pairs.

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With the sun lowering in the sky, we decided to head to the prison just southwest of town to view their hammocks. We had read the selection and workmanship of the hammocks made by the prisoners was outstanding. This is absolutely true!

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The prices range from 550 to 780 pesos depending on the size, weave, and colors…and no negotiation is required. We picked out a bright blue and black hammock and Jennifer found a black crochet purse for 100 pesos. We paid the guard and headed back (mostly in the dark) to Tulum.

AdGuy
8th January 2007, 11:43 AM
Dinner at Nacho’s Latitude 20 was a fluke. We hadn’t made plans and pulled out my notes made from the message boards and our map. It was one of those “sure, why not?” type decisions that we rarely make. We headed off and completely passed by as their sign only faces southbound traffic coming down the beach road.

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We turned around, parked, and headed around the back to find we were the ONLY folks there. For a moment, we weren’t even sure they were open but were quickly greeted by Nacho’s brother, Alfonzo. He was happy to see us and directed us to the best seats in the house – the table closest to the ocean – and brought two margaritas.

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The entire night we had the restaurant totally to ourselves. This was one of those “movie star” moments where you rent out the entire place, have your own personal waiter/chef, and have no background interference except for the sound of waves lapping up on the shore. It was incredible and one I doubt we’ll ever duplicate.

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After enjoying chips and salsa, we ordered the seafood family plate for two which contained shrimp, grilled grouper, calamari, mussels, sautéed fish, octopus, grilled vegetables, rice, and hot tortillas. It was extraordinary!

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Just when we felt it wouldn’t get any better, Alfonzo asked if we ‘minded’ if he turned the generator and lights off, allowing us to finish our drinks by candlelight, under the stars. We quickly said “no problemo” and enjoyed the remainder of the evening. It was magical!! After a half hour, we headed back to Tita Tulum. We packed our snorkel gear for tomorrow’s trip north to Solimon Bay, home of the Corona commercials (the advertising guy in me was thrilled!) and headed off to dreamland.

Next: From “movie star dinner” to “movie star locale”, a strange supper, and parting is such sweet sorrow!

minniemex
8th January 2007, 12:25 PM
Wonderful report!! I so want to go back today!!

I love how those moments happen - ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh:p

firecop680
8th January 2007, 01:28 PM
I have to say you have given the best report I have ever read. NICE JOB!

Gale in KY
8th January 2007, 04:37 PM
OMG...I am in heaven..mas, par favor!:D This the most wonderful report I have read in such a long time! I wish you had stayed a month!:D

felony
8th January 2007, 05:30 PM
Oh, man, Lee! I'll be there shortly and am definitely going to hunto those restaurants down!!!:D

MollyJ
8th January 2007, 07:21 PM
I have been enjoying every installment of the trip report! I so wish I were there now. What an excellent report and love the pictures! Can't wait to see more! :)

MollyJ

patmex
8th January 2007, 09:52 PM
Thanks, Lee!

As usual, BRILLIANT!

I'm actually thinking of e-mailing Posada Margherita a few days before we leave to see if we can get dinner reservations mid-week, since the week we're there is Easter Week.

I'm also wondering if we can arrange baby sitting for the 10-year-old who's going with us so we can have dinner a deux, but if not, we'll just take him along -- he's a great kid.

I'm really worried that the whole area will be a mad house (what with most Mexican residents having the week off on holiday), but it's the only week we can go.

Thanks again, Lee! GRRREEAATT reports!

patmex
8th January 2007, 10:08 PM
One more question, please.

Did you arrange the tour of the Sian Ka'an before you left home or when you got there?

AdGuy
9th January 2007, 08:51 AM
One more question, please.

Did you arrange the tour of the Sian Ka'an before you left home or when you got there?

Patmex,

Not sure about babysitting services as we are 'sans kids' and don't really have any experience with that. Certainly not a problem to bring a child to Posada Margherita but we didn't see any there and it's not the type of place a child would like...better for just the two of you.

We arranged our tour with CESiaK at their office. They're open from 8A-5P every day and run tours every day. We stopped by on a Saturday afternoon and were able to book for Monday (their Sunday tour was full). Keep in mind, they only book a maximum of 12 folks for each tour/day and we went during a very light travel period. I'd suggest emailing them ahead of time...you can book with them prior to your arrival but we wanted the flexibility of scheduling last-minute. Their office is on Highway 307 near the PEMEX gas station on the east side of the street. If you go to www.cesiak.org (http://www.cesiak.org) you'll find their contact info.

stonecold
10th January 2007, 12:39 AM
great report Lee, it has been fun following your vacation.....thanks for taking the time to share...