AdGuy
8th January 2007, 11:30 AM
For the first two days of this report, please click: http://www.tulum.info/showthread.php?t=555 (http://www.tulum.info/showthread.php?t=555)
For days three and four of this report, please click: http://www.tulum.info/showthread.php?t=561 (http://www.tulum.info/showthread.php?t=561)
Dia Cinco – Monday, December 11: After another night of rain, we awoke to (drum roll please), more rain! Coming from the Sunshine State, this was a bit of a drag. Jen and I tend to suffer Seasonal Affect Disorder (SAD) if we go more than a day without sun. Under normal circumstances this would have been depressing…but we were in Tulum…and scheduled to spend the next seven hours on a guided Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve tour!
We decided upon a quick breakfast right at Tita Tulum. Typically, we try not to eat at the same place twice (we had dinner there our first night) but our tour was scheduled to pick us up at 9:00 and almost all restaurants didn’t open till 8:00. As the restaurant opened, we dodged drops from our room to the table – all of 20 steps – and reviewed the menu.
Our waitress took our order (huevos rancheros and a huevos motulenos) and headed off to the kitchen. We noticed a dignified woman heading our way…could it be the famed “Tita” of Tita Tulum? Yes, it was! Though I was sure she was coming over to chastise us for our childish behavior throughout the week, she introduced herself and welcomed us to her property. She was pleased that we were staying seven nights (I think most only stay three to four then move on to another location) and verified our stay had been comfortable. For those wondering, I can confirm that the owner is as nice as the property.
After polishing down a large and delicious breakfast (we justified we need the calories for all the hiking, swimming, and climbing we’d soon be doing) we headed back to our room to grab our stuff. Right on time, our guide (Ben) showed up and we headed down the bumpy five kilometer road from Tita Tulum to the Centro Ecologico Sian Ka’an (CESiaK) ecotourism and educational outpost in the Sian Ka’an. During the twenty-minute trek, Ben shared a wealth of information about the history, flora/fauna, and geography of the preserve and outlined the plans for the day.
Before I get too far into the day, let me explain that CESiaK was created in 1998 to encourage local understanding and support for the conservation of the Sian Ka’an reserve. Currently, 750 local students learn about the surrounding environment in addition to working on projects for its conservation. The organization also offers small-group tours (limited to 12 individuals), accommodations, and a restaurant. For more information, check them out at http://www.siankaan.org/index.htm (http://www.siankaan.org/index.htm).
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i317/FloridaAdGuy/December2006TulumPictureson16MB345.jpg
I mentioned the maximum group size is twelve. Due to the rain, we had a whopping THREE folks (including Jennifer and me). Our only other companion was Sue, a fascinating individual who quit her job as a school teacher in England, sold her car, and was traveling the world with just a large backpack for an entire year. I’m amazed at people like this who can take such a bold step to accomplish their dream! As we waited at the CESiaK office, we swapped travel stories but quickly realized we were outmatched.
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i317/FloridaAdGuy/December2006TulumPictureson16MB373.jpg
We head down to our 23 foot, open-air boat and tour the lagoons of Caapechen, Boca Paila, and Chunyaxche. Ben points out the underground cenotes, points out birds, crocodiles, and fish, take us to a small Mayan temple, and offers the three of us the chance to float down a freshwater canal. I was really looking forward to this but I couldn’t persuade the women to do this (too cold they claimed) and so passed. With that, we headed back to the restaurant to change into dry clothes and enjoy a Mayan meal (complete with tequila)!
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i317/FloridaAdGuy/December2006TulumPictureson16MB393.jpg
After a late lunch, we head back towards civilization. Typically, the tour offers a swim in a local cenote, but due to the weather (constant rain) it was postponed. Ben invited us to come back when the weather was better and points out how to get there. INSIDE TIP: Actually, anyone can swim there. As you’re facing the Sian Ka’an arch (looking into the reserve), look for an interpretive path through the woods to your right. Follow the path and you’ll end at the cenote…but jump in the water quickly as the mosquitoes can be pretty bad. Around 3:30 we arrive at Tita Tulum and say goodbye to all, making sure to tip Ben very well.
Though the weather was bad, we really enjoyed the day. The total cost (including lunch) is only $68/person and you’ll likely see and experience a lot. There are only three guides…hopefully, you’ll be lucky enough to get Ben, as he’s enthusiastic about his work and his passion for nature is infectious.
After showers, we decide to head into town to grab some baked goods from La Casa del Buen Pan. For those looking for a small, authentic Mexican bakery this is the place! While there’s a bigger spot right on the main street (Pan del Carmen), I’d recommend you seek this hidden spot out. They have fantastic, fresh-made breads, rolls, and pastries…plus, a secluded courtyard that you can take your delectable discoveries and enjoy them in a wonderful atmosphere. INSIDE TIP: Make sure you bring small peso coins/bills as they sometimes have a tough time breaking large amounts…and they consider a $50 peso bill (less than $5USD a LARGE amount!). By the way, they’re at the corner of Calle Alfa and Calle Sagitario which is about two blocks west of the main highway, near the ADO bus station. You’ll know you’ve arrived in heaven when you see…
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i317/FloridaAdGuy/December2006TulumPictureson16MB276.jpg
We knew we wanted to hit the road right first thing tomorrow morning to arrive at Ek Balam as early as possible. We also realized we were a tad hungry right now and knew any baked goods had little chance of making it back to the room in one piece. As a result, we decided to buy “extra rations” so we wouldn’t have to stop for breakfast (isn’t it amazing how you can rationalize just about anything if you put your mind to it?). We grabbed up some rolls, pastries, and just-out-of-the-oven macaroons (let’s all say it together…YUM!) and headed back to Tita Tulum to get ready for our dinner reservations at Posada Margherita.
For days three and four of this report, please click: http://www.tulum.info/showthread.php?t=561 (http://www.tulum.info/showthread.php?t=561)
Dia Cinco – Monday, December 11: After another night of rain, we awoke to (drum roll please), more rain! Coming from the Sunshine State, this was a bit of a drag. Jen and I tend to suffer Seasonal Affect Disorder (SAD) if we go more than a day without sun. Under normal circumstances this would have been depressing…but we were in Tulum…and scheduled to spend the next seven hours on a guided Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve tour!
We decided upon a quick breakfast right at Tita Tulum. Typically, we try not to eat at the same place twice (we had dinner there our first night) but our tour was scheduled to pick us up at 9:00 and almost all restaurants didn’t open till 8:00. As the restaurant opened, we dodged drops from our room to the table – all of 20 steps – and reviewed the menu.
Our waitress took our order (huevos rancheros and a huevos motulenos) and headed off to the kitchen. We noticed a dignified woman heading our way…could it be the famed “Tita” of Tita Tulum? Yes, it was! Though I was sure she was coming over to chastise us for our childish behavior throughout the week, she introduced herself and welcomed us to her property. She was pleased that we were staying seven nights (I think most only stay three to four then move on to another location) and verified our stay had been comfortable. For those wondering, I can confirm that the owner is as nice as the property.
After polishing down a large and delicious breakfast (we justified we need the calories for all the hiking, swimming, and climbing we’d soon be doing) we headed back to our room to grab our stuff. Right on time, our guide (Ben) showed up and we headed down the bumpy five kilometer road from Tita Tulum to the Centro Ecologico Sian Ka’an (CESiaK) ecotourism and educational outpost in the Sian Ka’an. During the twenty-minute trek, Ben shared a wealth of information about the history, flora/fauna, and geography of the preserve and outlined the plans for the day.
Before I get too far into the day, let me explain that CESiaK was created in 1998 to encourage local understanding and support for the conservation of the Sian Ka’an reserve. Currently, 750 local students learn about the surrounding environment in addition to working on projects for its conservation. The organization also offers small-group tours (limited to 12 individuals), accommodations, and a restaurant. For more information, check them out at http://www.siankaan.org/index.htm (http://www.siankaan.org/index.htm).
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i317/FloridaAdGuy/December2006TulumPictureson16MB345.jpg
I mentioned the maximum group size is twelve. Due to the rain, we had a whopping THREE folks (including Jennifer and me). Our only other companion was Sue, a fascinating individual who quit her job as a school teacher in England, sold her car, and was traveling the world with just a large backpack for an entire year. I’m amazed at people like this who can take such a bold step to accomplish their dream! As we waited at the CESiaK office, we swapped travel stories but quickly realized we were outmatched.
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i317/FloridaAdGuy/December2006TulumPictureson16MB373.jpg
We head down to our 23 foot, open-air boat and tour the lagoons of Caapechen, Boca Paila, and Chunyaxche. Ben points out the underground cenotes, points out birds, crocodiles, and fish, take us to a small Mayan temple, and offers the three of us the chance to float down a freshwater canal. I was really looking forward to this but I couldn’t persuade the women to do this (too cold they claimed) and so passed. With that, we headed back to the restaurant to change into dry clothes and enjoy a Mayan meal (complete with tequila)!
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i317/FloridaAdGuy/December2006TulumPictureson16MB393.jpg
After a late lunch, we head back towards civilization. Typically, the tour offers a swim in a local cenote, but due to the weather (constant rain) it was postponed. Ben invited us to come back when the weather was better and points out how to get there. INSIDE TIP: Actually, anyone can swim there. As you’re facing the Sian Ka’an arch (looking into the reserve), look for an interpretive path through the woods to your right. Follow the path and you’ll end at the cenote…but jump in the water quickly as the mosquitoes can be pretty bad. Around 3:30 we arrive at Tita Tulum and say goodbye to all, making sure to tip Ben very well.
Though the weather was bad, we really enjoyed the day. The total cost (including lunch) is only $68/person and you’ll likely see and experience a lot. There are only three guides…hopefully, you’ll be lucky enough to get Ben, as he’s enthusiastic about his work and his passion for nature is infectious.
After showers, we decide to head into town to grab some baked goods from La Casa del Buen Pan. For those looking for a small, authentic Mexican bakery this is the place! While there’s a bigger spot right on the main street (Pan del Carmen), I’d recommend you seek this hidden spot out. They have fantastic, fresh-made breads, rolls, and pastries…plus, a secluded courtyard that you can take your delectable discoveries and enjoy them in a wonderful atmosphere. INSIDE TIP: Make sure you bring small peso coins/bills as they sometimes have a tough time breaking large amounts…and they consider a $50 peso bill (less than $5USD a LARGE amount!). By the way, they’re at the corner of Calle Alfa and Calle Sagitario which is about two blocks west of the main highway, near the ADO bus station. You’ll know you’ve arrived in heaven when you see…
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i317/FloridaAdGuy/December2006TulumPictureson16MB276.jpg
We knew we wanted to hit the road right first thing tomorrow morning to arrive at Ek Balam as early as possible. We also realized we were a tad hungry right now and knew any baked goods had little chance of making it back to the room in one piece. As a result, we decided to buy “extra rations” so we wouldn’t have to stop for breakfast (isn’t it amazing how you can rationalize just about anything if you put your mind to it?). We grabbed up some rolls, pastries, and just-out-of-the-oven macaroons (let’s all say it together…YUM!) and headed back to Tita Tulum to get ready for our dinner reservations at Posada Margherita.