Trip Report March 2008

[beachreader]

Trip Report, Tulum March 2008

A little over two weeks since I left and I’ve been so busy since I got back it’s getting harder to remember things. Some of the order of events might be different than presented, but I think it all fits. I'm sorry it's sooo long, but I'm a detail freak. Organizing my pics really helped get my mind back in Tulum time, so here goes:

First off, flying First Class totally rocks, even if it is for a short trip like this. Special check in, special line at security, first to board, great seats, yeah baby. OK, so it cost me twice as many miles as a regular flight would have been, but there you are. I just have to shop more with my Continental credit card to get my miles back up there!

No problems with the flight; it was great that I left early on the Friday morning, because Friday night a storm moved in and I would have been toast Saturday morning. Pretty much on time all the way, first at Inmigracion but I got busted at Customs with the dreaded red light (I think that’s a first for me). She didn’t seem to care much, did a cursory check and I was on my way. Met my guy from Continental right away, but he had to wait for someone else so called the office for someone to come get me and I cooled my heels in the shade for about 15 minutes. That was kind of a drag; in December we left as soon as I got there.

Things seemed a bit slower at the rental office as well, but I got a decent car with a working lighter and gave a ride to one of their employees down to Playa, since I had to go into town to pick up Gale anyway. On the ride, we discovered that one of the speakers was bad (gave a loud buzz every time a bass note hit), and when we got to the office, he fixed it with duct tape and it worked fine. God bless duct tape! Driving in Playa east of 10th is no treat, I was happy to find a parking lot a few blocks from the dock (that’s a taxi-only area) and ditch the car.

By the time we got there it was already 2:30 and Gale was supposed to be in by 3:00, so I didn’t have time to do a few of the things I’d intended, so I just wandered around after parking and bought a tasty chicken tamale from a street vendor on the beach side of the square (sorry, forgot to take a pic) and just wandered around to wait.

Gale had a rough crossing but the boat was only about 15 minutes late. It was so great finally meeting her in person!!! Sorry, no pics of the meeting. In fact, no pics of anything useful until we get to Tulum. For a girl with a new camera, I was slow to pull it out!

In a bit of a travel daze, we hit Wal-Mart (ick) to see about beach chairs (didn’t find anything reasonable so I gave up easily) and bought some supplies and headed south.

[beachreader]

At Cabanas Tulum, the woman behind the desk when we arrived didn’t have much English, and we ended up in a less-than great room. It was still technically beachfront, but it was arranged sideways, so the patio was half the size of the other rooms.
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(OK, these aren't actually our room but rather pics of a similar room I took last year.)

We were able to move the next day to #6, one of the rooms with the really large patios and the beds arranged so both face the beach. Rooms 1-16 are the ones you want. Anything over 16 will be the sideways style (see above), and not as nice. Same price, different room.

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We were both pretty hungry even though it was only 5:30 or so, so we headed off to an early dinner at Zamas. I couldn’t believe all the new stuff going on in Tulum even since my trip in December, and since Gale hadn’t been in a couple of years, it was pretty shocking to her as well.

One of the big new places is called Pesc; it’ll be a restaurant owned by the guy who owns Mezzanine and La Zebra, and it’s on that rough stretch of beach near Maya Tulum (across the little bay from Zamas), where the squatter types (or landowners, depending on who you ask) had their shacks before.
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I was supposed to see the inside later in the week thanks to Rene’s friendship with the owner, but they were under a construction hold for one of the many possible reasons things can be held up so all I got were some quickie pics as I drove by (or shot from across the bay at Zamas at sunset).
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Hopefully Mayaflya will get inside this week.

Sorry for the diversion there. Dinner at Zamas was very good, as usual. I had the achiote shrimp, Gale had a garlic fish, and we both had several margaritas, good and strong.
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An expensive meal, but we figured hey, it was our first night in town. A guitarist played flamenco-influenced music, perfect for the atmosphere, and then suddenly a dancer appeared and danced beautifully all over the restaurant. She was a modern dancer, but really good. This was the only pic that came out, had to use flash--even with fixing the red eye, her eyes still look freaky, you should have seen the pic before I fixed it!
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It was a very cool evening of entertainment. And that was the early show! We left before the main act started at 8:00 or so and headed home.

I have to say I was really impressed with the beds at Cabanas Tulum. Considering what a beautiful room I had at Hamaca Loca in December but with a terrible bed, I’d expected more typically hard Mexican beds at CT. These were very comfortable, and I even had a pillow I liked (I’m pickier about pillows than I am about mattresses). It’s like the whole place has really everything you’d need, good beds, huge patios, a dressing area and a vanity, large bathroom, excellent beachfront location, restaurant on site with 7:30 breakfast time, even ping pong and pool.

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The ceiling fan, which shuts off with the electricit at 11 p.m or so:
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Storage:
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More storage at the vanity area:
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Great windows with screens:
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In fact, it has everything except charm. In the style book, it’s a big zero, and while everyone was nice enough, I didn’t exactly feel the love. All they have for beach furniture are those molded-fiberglass soap dish-looking things, which are seriously uncomfortable.
You can just barely see them here, sorry I didn't get a better picture:
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Gale and I kept thinking all they’d have to do is spend a little bit of money on better beach chairs, new paint, new fixtures, a few minor design elements like decent (or at least newer) fabrics. Raise the rates 10% and you’re still the best cheap place on the beach road. But I have a feeling they’re just going to raise the rates and not do anything, just wait and see what happens in the market. Maybe they’re going to sell? I don’t know. I’d definitely stay there again in the interest of saving money, but I’ll have to find a place to sit in a better chair, even if it means a beach club (horrors!).

On the critter front, on two separate nights we had rather large water bugs (or whatever you want to call them). One in the bathroom of the first room, which I shooed into the shower and slid the door shut (he was gone by morning, hopefully back down the drain), the other in the dressing area of the second room, which made me squeal and jump around until Gale shooed him out the front door. On my fourth morning, when I was already packed up and ready to go, I ducked into the bathroom for a minute before heading out, only to find (after I was seated) that there was scorpion in the shower a few feet away. Oh yeah, that’ll help. I just kept an eye on him and finished my business, grabbed my bags and ran. He was decent-sized, too, maybe 2.5” long? Wish I’d taken a picture of him, hideous beast that he was.

[beachreader]

OK, back to my schedule with Gale. Well, we didn’t actually have much of a schedule. On our first morning, we wandered south to find Pierre and his famous coffee shop-on-a-surfboard (actually, it’s a windsurfer board).
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His menu:
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I really should have gotten a pic of Pierre himself, a native French Canadian now living up in British Columbia (well, now living in Tulum). He was managing this little private campground just south of Esmeralda K and set up the coffee gig. Great coffee, too. Not cheap, but really good. I heard later in the week from Mariposa that he was kicked out and had moved down to Ak’iin, so that may be where to find your early coffee in future.

As Gale and I were waiting on our coffee, I wondered about the house next door, which was clearly private. Peeking over the fence, I saw a likely-looking gringa and asked the name of the house. “Samasati”, she said, and I said, “Mariposa?” Too funny. We were just getting coffee and stumbled onto the Mariposas!

We checked out their house, which was pretty cute but the bed was not working too well for the 6’5” Mr. Mariposa, so they were on the hunt for a new place (more on where they turned up later, unless you read Mariposa’s report first!).
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They made us a fabulous French toast breakfast in the little kitchen of the house, and we all snooped around a mysteriously unfinished concrete building on the beachfront of the property. Apparently the owner of Samasati and the owner of the next house were building the thing together and had a falling out so it sits unfinished. It would have been a perfect place for Pierre’s business, but he might be OK over at Ak’iin now. The ride side has plumbing (a sink, at least) and sand floor, the left side is tiled but empty.
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Well fed, we wandered back to CT to try to enjoy the beach, but the wind made this difficult. The whole week was very windy except for one day (which was then followed by a real howler, so it all balanced to the windy side). I tried sitting in one of the soap dishes, and that didn’t work at all so I moved back up to the porch and Gale and I ended up just chatting until it was time to move rooms.

After we moved and settled in, it was pretty much time for lunch, so we just headed back to the restaurant and had some pretty decent tacos and margaritas at CT (man, I’m getting bad about the food pics!). Not much for the rest of the afternoon except that we swung by Copal to book some appointments at the Mayan Spa for Sunday and decided to have dinner at Kin-Ha to take advantage of their happy hour and see how they’re doing in the new space. Again, it was pretty early for dinner so we got to see a bit of sunset.
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It's all very white and Euro-stylish now:
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Here's a shot from later in the week showing the exterior (with wind curtains up), and the three new rooms upstairs. I'd hoped to see them, but they were booked.
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Samuel is still tending bar at Kin Ha, and we had a few cocktails and then ordered a grilled seafood platter he recommended without asking the price. It was very good, but we ended up spending more than we’d planned for a second night in a row. Oh well!

They still have the bbq grill going, here's our dinner on the way to the grill:
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And the finished product:
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On the way out from Kin Ha, we noticed the new shop in front of Posada Lamar. I’m pretty sure this wasn’t there in December, but it’s a lovely shop just like the one they have fronting Posada del Sol in the central beach area (now to be known by me as “beachtown”, a name I got from Matt at Miel).
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This is where we met the charming Sofia, a gentle young woman from Portugal who works nights at the shop and is getting a body work/massage therapy business going. I’d been planning on getting two massages this week anyway, so I booked with her on the spot to be done in my room at Miel Tuesday afternoon. I don’t know if I should print her rates here as they may change (they should change, she’s amazing), but she was well below the rates at places such as Mayan Spa. In all, an evening well spent, and we headed home to read (and do battle with a large water bug, as mentioned earlier).

PM me if you want Sofia's e-mail to schedule an appointment. I'll talk more about my massage later, but it was amazing.

[PhyllisB]

WOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

Beachreader's report! Thanks, Fran. I think this is just what we all need around here!

Yikes that scorpion would have scared the hell out of me. I haven't seen one there yet (at least not that I realized!). I woulda been out of there faster than you could blink.

No pix of you and Gale, tho'? What's up with that? :) :) :) :) :)

[beachreader]

I don't love the idea of my picture on the internet, and neither do Gale, Mariposa or Giddy, so we decided to resist posting pics of one another. Sorry!

[pepper]

love, Love, LOVE IT!!

I'm going to be late for carpool pick-up...but this is important business, yes???

I'm w/ y'all....I don't want my pic all over the world either...

[PhyllisB]

Okay, and I'm not really liking Kin-Ha's new look....

I love Pierre's little stand though. Hope he's still all set up and doing good business.

[Lynnette]

Wonderful start, Fran. I'm so glad I took a few moments to check in...you are making my day MUCH brighter!!

[beachreader]

Hope I don't make you sick of me, guys, I'm only just finished with like Day 2 and it's already huge! Ah well. You can always skip ahead.

[pepper]

Ohhh...and THAT is not a ceiling fan!!!

[beachreader]

No, it's an oscillating fan mounted up at ceiling height, but it's not too bad, really. Just kind of a drag that it quits at 11, when you'd really want it then if it were hot. Happily, we had comfortable nighttime temps for sleeping.

[PhyllisB]

Ohhh...and THAT is not a ceiling fan!!!

I thought the same thing, pepper! But those beds look alright... Fran, did you all get a decent breeze, seeing as how that fan seems a little...uh.... small?

p.

[PhyllisB]

Okay, I'll stop cross posting with y'all now and just wait and read!!!! :)

[Gale in KY]

Hey Fran, is there an echo in the Trip Report Forum? :):):):beerchug:
I can't believe we both picked today to do our reports! LOLOL!

[TheWindyCity]

I don't love the idea of my picture on the internet, and neither do Gale, Mariposa or Giddy, so we decided to resist posting pics of one another. Sorry!

BOOOOOOOOO!:mad:

[TnTWalter]

Yipee!!! Hooray!!! :eat-drink:

[AdGuy]

Hope I don't make you sick of me, guys, I'm only just finished with like Day 2 and it's already huge! Ah well. You can always skip ahead.

Fran, don't be silly...we were sick of you way before this trip report. http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/36/36_11_6.gif (http://www.tulum.info/redirector.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.smileycentral. com%2F%3Fpartner%3DZSzeb001_ZNxmk762YYUS)

Seriously, what appears to be a way too long trip report will have us begging for more when we get towards the end. A well-written report with great photos (which describes your reports) is never too long!

[beachreader]

Aw, shucks. :o


OK, two technical things I'm not sure where to put in the overall report: First, bring CDs for your car! Every car I've rented in the past two and half years (that's 5 or 6 I think) has had a CD player, and the radio really sucks in Tulum. They talk waaaay too much on their radio in general, and you can barely get reception in Tulum.

Second, we talked a lot about money exchange before I went down, so I paid extra attention to the rates. The airport was actually OK. Not great, but not really awful.

I looked in Playa, and saw rates from 10.30 to 10.50 or so at various places, and decided to keep my money and see what they had in Tulum. At the HSBC in the pueblo, they gave me 10.55, at the Bancomer a few days later, I got 10.58, but that was a different day and the rates change many times during the day. I felt both places were fair rates, and no fees for cash exchanges.

I also used the ATM, and while the initial rate is great at 10.71 (did I do this math right? 1500 pesos cost me $140.04), I had to pay a 1% exchange fee plus a $5.00 ATM fee, which brings the rate back down to (I think) 10.24, so not so great at all. So, if you guys have the kind of ATM cards that don't charge you fees (and I'm going to call my bank and ask to have that fee removed because Bancomer is supposed to be in my network), ATMs are the absolute best way to go.

I think ATMs are great because they're so convenient, but if you're not afraid to carry cash around, exchanging the cash at a bank will probably get you the best rate if you do have to pay ATM fees.

I welcome any corrections to my math or to my assumptions here. Numbers are NOT my strong suit.

[beachreader]

OK, back to regularly scheduled programming:

Sunday morning, bright and early, we both hit the sunrise and then just hung around until breakfast time.
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At 7:30, we hit the CT restaurant (with like 25 Europeans who later left on a bus). Decent coffee, and I had huevos a la Mexicana to which I asked them to add chorizo. Delicious, if a wee bit greasy:
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Gale had the far more sensible fruit plate.
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Another windy day in paradise, but I gave it a shot. I set up one of the soap dish chairs as a wind block and tried lying on the sand behind it. I managed to last for a while, but ended up coated with sand from head to foot. Hey, it’s an exfoliant, right? J

We decided to take a walk and go see if we could meet Rene at La Luna. On the way, we stopped in at Casa Tortuguita, the rental house that’s smack next to Ana y Jose. A lovely young Dutch family (well, a couple and their toddler) were staying there and let us poke around a bit. It’s actually a very nice little house, nice side yard with hammocks and such and an outdoor kitchen. They have a double bed on the first floor and two doubles on the second floor, reached by an outdoor spiral staircase. There’s no bathroom upstairs, so you’d have to be using the spiral to sneak down into the other bedroom in the middle of the night, or there’s an outdoor bathroom that the nice people who allowed us to look around said wasn’t very nice. But overall, a really cute little house for a family or other group happy with sharing a bathroom. This pic shows how close it is to Ana y Jose; the solid wall to the left of the pic is actually the wall of the new AyJ spa.
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Their side yard:
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Another one showing the wall-sharing proximity to AyJ, but honestly, the property itself feels very private because it extends the other way. You really don't notice AyJ at all when you're up there.
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View from the upper deck:
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And on to La Luna, first passing Zulum and all their fancy beach stuff.

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Here’s a picture of Rene on the deck of their Columbus unit, for all of you curious types. Sorry, Rene, I don’t usually post people’s pictures on the internet without permission, but you’re famous, dude!
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I think I may have to post a separate thread on La Luna (not part of my trip report, since I didn’t actually stay there) because I have so many pictures and I know so many people are curious about it, but suffice to say here that it’s a lovely place, apparently professionally run yet with a bit of a communal vibe that I’ve missed since Kailuum. Here are a few more, though:

Their wedding bower, to which Rene says they add fresh flowers for weddings:
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A view of the property from the beach:
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And one of their garden/kitchen/bbq/bonfire area:
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After leaving Rene, and a promise to return later in the week when he’d be able to show me the interiors of a few rooms, we continued north to see some of the newer places.

We passed by Playa Azul again, which now has decent beach furniture, one of my concerns when I first saw it in December. I still don’t see paying $165 for such basic accommodation, but that’s what they’re still asking, though it dropped to $140 I think when Giddy asked for a better price later in the week. Still a bit high for that, though the beach is stunning.
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We turned in at Puerta del Cielo (the new place just south of Retiro Maya, just opened in January), since I’ve been wanting to try their restaurant and I’d promised Bayzee to get contact info. I should probably just update the thread I started for them back in December, but the contact e-mail I was given is moniavila at hotmail dot com (editing this so they don't get hit by spam), no website (though I haven’t Googled them with the correct spelling—last December I called it “Puerto”, not “Puerta”).

Anyway, it’s really a very nice place. Handsomely-designed bar with a spectacular view of the water,
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decent drinks (Gale had a shockingly blue house drink that was actually pretty tasty, my margarita was OK; good, but nothing special),
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and terrific ceviche. It was heavy on the onions, but they were so sweet you hardly noticed. Good guac, too, but it was also heavy on the onions for my taste—clearly someone in the kitchen got a good deal on sweet white onions that day!
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This one makes the ceviche look bigger--it was pretty big:
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To update my info from December, apparently the very large casitas don’t yet have A/C or TV. Perhaps the realities of life on the beach road have put paid to that idea. Still, even without the A/C, they’re large and handsome units, just very expensive and again, I didn’t see any fabulous beach furniture to go along with the price. The little bungalows are really little, but at least they’re right on the beach (though right on the beach means in full sunshine, so I bet it would be hot for napping).

[beachreader]

After lunch we headed back to the ranch because it was time for Gale’s Mayan Spa treatment, a fancy foot/leg thing that she really loved. When she came back, I took the car and went for my treatment, a 90-minute Swedish massage (I only picked that because I couldn’t decide what I wanted in that big menu of options). My appointment was at 5:00, I was there at 5:03 and was led back into one of the cabanas in the woods. I said that I thought my massage was supposed to be on the beach or up on the cliff as I had reserved, and she said it gets too cold on the beach at that time of day. I hadn’t considered that, and I’m sure she was right, but I wish they had told me that when I’d reserved, so in general, make sure that if you want the clifftop or beach spots, you need to be out there in the main part of the day.

It was a very good massage, but nothing amazing, and I was a bit disappointed in two things. First, someone was clearly working in the woods, so I heard footsteps and chopping and dragging noises. They weren’t speaking, but I was still surprised they had someone back there working during services. Second, I really think that my 90-minute massage was actually around 75 minutes. I hate to be picky, but that bugs me. For true massage bliss, I had to wait another two days (oooh, foreshadowing!).

Headed back to CT to shower and change for our big night at La Zebra. Wow, that place is amazing on a Sunday night. Packed with people, many dressed to the (relative) nines. Cars parked along the road and a parking attendant with a really obnoxious light. I passed a spot thinking there was another place, but then, fine, that’s my spot. I can parallel park, no worries, but as soon as I put the car in reverse, I realized that parking guy had stepped RIGHT behind my car! So I had to wait for him to move and pretend to let him guide me into the spot. I guess I was supposed to tip him or something, but I don’t like tipping people for doing something that I can do myself without assistance. Grump, grump.

So, as I said, the place was hopping. We could hear the band out on the beach deck, and there were a lot of people hanging around the bar but a few tables open inside. They didn’t have our reservation (thought we were coming the following week), but OK, if we’d just wait at the bar, they’d put tables together.

Fine, I stepped up to the bar, looking forward to trying one of the great drinks I’ve heard about. We were completely ignored, and I mean completely. I could have said something, could have collared someone, but I was clearly a new person at the bar, I had a full spot at the bar (i.e., not hidden behind anyone), and being a former bartender, I was curious to see how long it would take them to recognize my existence. They never did. We were shown to our tables and ignored again. Had to flag someone down for drinks menus. This system continued for the rest of the evening. I know it’s Mexico, but that doesn’t excuse service this bad. I was there for a party night, and I think I managed to order two drinks for the evening. Yee-haa.

On the bright side, the Luvthesuns came, and the Mariposas, and Dianne, a lovely lady I met on the TA board (she was staying up at Ocho, more on that later), and Rene joined us after a while. Even with Rene there, who is a regular, service was still seriously lacking. Gale and I were able to split the “BBQ”, half lamb and half pork, both were delicious, but I think the pork won out. It certainly wins in the photo; the lamb looks purple for some reason.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67bd5eebb9300000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS
Pork:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67bd787bbfb00000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS

I found out later in the week that there were plenty of other people outside that we could have met and played with, including the Playa Info contingent led by JamesMN. I’m sure that’s where Xamach Margo was as well.

But we had a really nice time chatting with our group, learned a lot from Rene as well; his time in Costa Rica was spent saving the tortugas, very cool program. Next time, maybe a quieter locale for that kind of hanging-out getting-to-know-you dinner. Like in the pueblo.

I think if I ever give this Sunday night La Zebra thing a shot again, I think I'd book the earlier dinner time and then move outside to play. By the time we finally got dinner, finally got the check, finally finally, it was late and my massage was catching up to me. I felt a bit like a party pooper, but it was time to go home, completely unbuzzed and frustrated by the lack of service. Why wouldn’t you want to keep people drinking as much as possible? I don’t get that. Sigh.

[PhyllisB]

Excellente! Although I think it's safe to say that you're famous too, chica. ;)

By the way, you may want to edit that email add'y for Puerta del Cielo and make it name at xyz dot com, so the spammers don't pick it up.

Eagerly awaiting more, but it's okay if you want to space it out a bit!

[beachreader]

OK, Monday morning dawns, and it’s Gale’s last day! :( Wow, that was fast! I’m so sorry she wasn’t able to stay longer, but I guess life at home beckoned. Or I chased her away, one or the other.

We head down to Ocho for breakfast, a nice long beach walk, bypassing Pierre. We were going to stop at Tita’s, but they weren’t open yet (or they weren’t answering our calls of “Hola!”), so we just kept heading south and ended up at Ocho.

We settled in, were greeted promptly and ordered our breakfasts. I had an omelet and a chaya drink with my coffee, and for the life of me I can’t remember what Gale had, perhaps more fruit? She's such a healthy gal. :) Maybe it was the continental, toast and such. OK, now I’m realizing why you guys all take notes all the time! I love morning light for food shots:
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Halfway through our meal, Dianne came in, so she joined us for her breakfast. They include a continental breakfast with the room rate, but she wanted an egg with it to get a little protein. The waiter just couldn’t seem to wrap his mind around that (might be something to discuss with management—add an egg for $2 or something) so she settled on the continental.

After breakfast, we chatted a bit with a young woman who seemed to be a manager type and asked about Suenos Tulum, their neighbor. She shook her head, said it continues to be very sad, still tied up in courts and nothing is happening over there. Like us, she feels that it would be better to be running a business, whoever is getting the profits, and keeping the property up than just letting it go the way it is. Sad that they can’t work something out at least! I’m sure it would be far better for Ocho to have an attractive, active neighbor than the wreck that’s there now (not that it’s an eyesore from their property, but you know what I mean).

Happily, Dianne then gave us a little tour of her room. She had a garden room double, and even though it was on the back side of the property, the breeze wasn’t pretty decent (of course, it was another windy day). She said the ceiling fans were on all night if you wanted them (at CT, the fans knock off with the lights at 11 or so), so that would make a big difference on a hot night. Anyway, a very nice room, nice large porch, but her room was next to an area being used for construction detritis. Dianne didn’t even notice it, so not an issue at all.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67b7926bb0d00000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS
Nice bathroom (with a door), but it doesn't show well in this pic, which I snapped over the back of the maid:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67b6ea3fb1b00000025108Aas2rVo2ZuS

There’s a little massage hut in the middle of the property (not beach front, not all the way back), but it was locked up so we couldn’t peek inside.

Here's their restauarant and beach furniture--as with most restaurants that week, they had their wind shades down:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67b7b09bb2300000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS

Dianne and I made plans to have dinner at Om that night since Gale would be gone, so we headed next door to let them know we’d be coming. I was thrilled to be greeted like an old friend by Viri, the young woman who ran the desk while I was there in December. She’s very pregnant right now, so I don’t know how much longer she’ll be around, but it was very flattering to be remembered so clearly and warmly. No problem for dinner, just come whenever. Later on, after I dropped Gale at the bus station, I hit the Bancomer for some cashola, and ran into Chef Freddy at the supermarket parking lot. He called to me from 50 feet away, so clearly remembered me as well, and we had a nice chat. That night, we were greeted by Adriana, who also seemed to remember me. What an incredibly nice, customer-oriented bunch of people they are there at Om! More on the dinner itself later, just thought I’d mention how cool it felt to be remembered like that. I know it was just three months ago, and they may well have all been faking it, but it was still really nice.

After breakfast with Dianne, we just headed back to the room, got there pretty much just in time for Gale to finish packing up and head out to catch the bus to get up to Playa to catch the boat to catch the plane. From car to bus to boat to plane, I hope the trip was smoother than it sounds! :bus::airplane:

Gale, it was awesome meeting you, really hope we can swing it next Fall as well!

[beachreader]

Excellente! Although I think it's safe to say that you're famous too, chica. ;)

By the way, you may want to edit that email add'y for Puerta del Cielo and make it name at xyz dot com, so the spammers don't pick it up.

Eagerly awaiting more, but it's okay if you want to space it out a bit!


Good catch on the e-mail thing, thanks, Phyllis. And famous or not, I'd still rather maintain a certain level of anonymity. Taking a break now, I promise!

[graceland]

Beachreader/raider, have been so patiently waiting your return/report..and it's been well worth it. I love the way you converse at you write, as though we are just chatting together about your trip.
Of course I'd be as thrilled as you if anyone remembered me after 3 months .
Loved seeing the pic of Rene and La Luna, though sorry he won't be there when we are booked. I'd love to see all your pics on another posting of Luna, and your observations as well.
Sounds like there are many great choices to be made in Tulum. I was going to wait for your report to book, but I got anxious and just went for it!
La Zebra would drive me crazy. I have also been in the biz, and nothing drives me up the wall than being ignored along with lousy service, as if their "name" makes up for it. I don't know if I will get there for dinner for that reason, but will surely try to do a little party thing during the holidays.
As I was trolling through PDC for an overnight before we fly home I can across the web site for "de las olas" as hotel cielo called it. I think it must be the same. Pretty pricey... and I love nice places more than anything, but not that much when there are apparently so many other choices. The site did mention kitchens in each cabana, but to me restaurant hopping is part of the fun!
As usual, a wonderful read. Thanks for the enjoyment.
Graceland
P.s. Going to start "charging" so I can arrive first class!:airplane:

[TnTWalter]

:eat-drink:Love the picture of my cabana!!! THanks!!!

[La Luna]

Wow Beachreader/raider,

Nice trip report! Long but interesting and I think a great guidebook for future Tulum visitors! "The Lonely planet guidebook" of Tulum!

You posted one of my best pictures ever made:)

You guys might think about making the tulum.info trip reports book!!

hasta luego

[PhyllisB]

Good catch on the e-mail thing, thanks, Phyllis. And famous or not, I'd still rather maintain a certain level of anonymity. Taking a break now, I promise!

Oh I know, I'm just giving you a hard time amiga.

One other quick clarification--about Diane's room at Ocho--did you mean the breeze was good or not so good? I'm guessing that she said the breeze was decent enough.

Great pix, you and Gale both. This camera really captures the different shades of light at the different times of day, I love it!!!

I'd be psyched to be recognized too. Tulum is great that way, isn't it?

[beachreader]

One other quick clarification--about Diane's room at Ocho--did you mean the breeze was good or not so good? I'm guessing that she said the breeze was decent enough.


I meant to say that the breeze did seem pretty good considering it was behind other buildings, on the ground floor and below the dune line. I suppose that might change as they fill in more flora around and about the place, but still, it was a nice room, nice beds, continental breakfast included (good coffee) and all of 100 yards from a good beach chair.


Rene, glad you liked the picture, I have a nice one of you and Giddy on the deck at Marrakech, but maybe I'll just send that one to you privately. Send me a PM with your e-mail address, OK? Actually, maybe I'll just send you a link to my file of all the La Luna pics I took.

[beachreader]

OK, so after dropping Gale at the bus station, I hit the bank and drove all the way back down to Casa Magna to re-confirm my reservation at Casa de Miel (Mariposa had warned me on Sunday night that the Miel folks seemed to be under the impression that Giddy and I were a couple so we’d be needing that king room, forcing the Mariposas into a double queen. Um, no thanks), where I briefly met the famous Melissa Perlman of Amansala/Casa Magna/now Casa de Miel fame. Anyway, we got the reservation confirmed properly, so the Mariposas could stay in the king and Giddy and I would stick with the double queen as planned.

By that time it was almost lunchtime, and I was in the car and driving, decided to head to the north beach to try to find something a bit more calm. I almost stopped at Mayan Grill, but realize I’ve never tried Mezzanine despite many good reviews, so I kept rolling to Mezzanine. It was just after 1:00, and Mezzanine has a happy hour, 2-1 from 1-4. Pretty good timing, eh?
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I chose a classic Thai dish, the grilled beef salad that was here called Yum Nuer, and a margarita, which of course was really two margaritas. And they were darned good margaritas, and the beef salad was excellent. I never thought I’d want Thai food in Mexico, but I've decided that good food is good food wherever you find it. And this was good!
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La cuenta, not too bad for the location:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67be5b13ae400000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS

Great service, too, a nice change from the owner’s other property, La Zebra. Got to chatting with a couple across the restaurant and ended up moving over and sitting with them for yet another cocktail, and I invited them to join Dianne and me for dinner at Om that evening. This is the very fun young honeymoon couple, Matt and his lovely bride, whose name has completely escaped me, who hung out with Obsessed and her husband at La Zebra the next day or so. Small world in Tulum, eh?

After all these midday cocktails, we parted ways and I headed over to La Vita e Bella for a chair and some calmer water than at home. Since it was so late (maybe 3:00?), no one asked me for any money and I just took a dip in the comparatively calm water and a nap on their nice warm chair. Hung there for a little while until dusk, headed back to CT for a shower and then on down to Om.

Apologies in advance for no pictures at Om this trip. I don't know why, perhaps it was just because we were too busy chatting, but I didn't pull the camera out once that whole evening.

Freddy made us an amazing seafood appetizer, in a coconut/curry sauce with just a little bit of heat. I wanted to eat the whole sauce with a spoon, indeed perhaps I did. Matt and I had some decent Argentinean Malbec and chef Freddy made me a very tasty filet. Not quite as spectacular as I had in December, but very good. I wonder if they made him tone things down a bit. I think everyone else’s food was also good; I’m so sorry I didn’t take any pictures! Ah, well, you’ll just have to imagine it. J

[luvthesun]

Wow!!! Great trip report! Love your pics too. Geez.... after a week of sun & margaritas, I don't think I remember half of what happened... how do you do it??? I think Fodors , Frommers , or Lonely Planet needs you on their staff as a travel writer. .... hmmmm... but then, EVERYONE will come...still, I could think of worse jobs.

[Obsessed]

Loving the trip report! Danielle is Matt's wife- we loved hanging out with them! I'm glad to know that other people had issues with La Zebra's service- not to say I'm glad you had bad service- I'm just glad to know we weren't imagining it!!!

[Lynnette]

I've been sitting here with my coffee and enjoying your remarkable report and photos. What a great way to start my day and can't wait for more!!!

[Gale in KY]

Just reliving our short visit together reading this report..ahhhh...it was such a great time amiga, I would love to do it again soon!

Just a couple of add on's..watch your step at that casa next to AYJ..rickety steps...had this ole' lady just a wee bit nervous. It's a cute place but it does need some work on those steps.

LaZebra needs a customer service mgr. in the WORST way, even if only on the busier weekend nights. They came close to needing a new dude to park cars...Beachreader is wicked with a vehicle..hehe..Watch out..get outta the way!

[twirls]

Just wanted to say that I'm enjoying the read!

[DougSR]

I don't love the idea of my picture on the internet, and neither do Gale, Mariposa or Giddy, so we decided to resist posting pics of one another. Sorry!

Both Gale and Fran are in the witness protection program. Please forgive them and don't bring up any threads about the mafia please.

[TheWindyCity]

Beachreader...I've been really enjoying your reports. Been pretty busy and away from the forum, but I'll get around to everyone's.

Sorry to hear about Le Zebra. This is what happens when you get a lot of press. They probably don't realize how much press they are getting, and are not properly staffing and training. Fame has it's price. They may just end up being a flash in the pan if they don't get their act together soon.

Anyway...enjoying your story and photos!

[Jana]

Thanks for all the great information - really enjoying your reports. The documentation time you spent while on vacation is much appreciated!

Jana

[beachreader]

The documentation time you spent while on vacation is much appreciated!

Jana


Nah, I just talk too much, is all. :) Besides, it's what I like to do. Some people go snorkel in cenotes, I look at other hotels. I really should try to find a way to make a living at it, just not sure how.

[beachreader]

OK, back to business:

Tuesday morning I packed up the car early and decided on a full breakfast up at Zamas. Very delicious huevos rancheros, great coffee, and an agua de melon (delicious, though I must say that Margo at Xamach Dos makes them better, somewhat less sweet, more indescribably craveable).
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It was a lovely morning, but very windy again, so I decided to head up to the north beach in search of some peace. So I hit La Vita e Bella again, this time pretty early in the day. I was eventually hit for a pretty steep chair-usage fee of 80 pesos, and I suppose I could have complained, but I was just so happy to be out of the wind and the sandstorm that I paid happily (of course it took the nice man a very long time to remember that he hadn’t given me my change, but that’s OK).

The waves were a bit stronger than the day before, and I was hit by one in my back that sent my sunglasses flying. I really thought I’d find them quickly, but it was right in the breakwater and they were gone for good. Boy was I pizzled at myself. So if anyone finds a pair of Ray-Bans washed up on the beach, let me know, OK? I really can’t be without sunglasses, so I moved inside to read and have a leisurely lunch of pretty good pizza.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67bd4c6fb2300000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS

Not as good as at Nero de Sole in town, but pretty darned good. I ate a lot of it. It's a very nice space, too, huge palapa roof with sand floors, I love that place. I don't get the somewhat creepy giant light fixtures (not on when I was there, sure they look better in the dark), but they look like giant wasps' nests. Wish I'd taken a picture.

I took a walk up the beach to check out Paraiso, as I’d heard that there was no more Nuddy Beach Club. This is, in fact, true. There was no sign of Nuddy Beach anywhere. They still have beach beds, but they’re beige instead of blue, and all signage says El Paraiso, nothing for Nuddy.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67b7ed27a5200000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS

Beachside massage prices--a bit public for my taste, but nice looking beds.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67b7e887a0800000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS

The beach road sign:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67b7dff3ae600000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS

I walked up to the road, and while the big Tides sign is still there, it’s torn down the middle and references only Playa del Carmen, no mention of Tulum on it. Who knows.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb664a760dbf700000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS

And this little road sign was almost directly across the street:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb6649b755acc00000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS
I don't know, but it made me feel either more comfortable, that the eco folks were gaining ground, or it was a false sense give the golf course scenario I've heard about. Again, who knows?

By that time I had to run into town to buy some sunglasses (really crappy selection at San Francisco, but only 75 pesos) and then to Casa de Miel in time for my massage with Sofia. She was meeting me at 3:00 and I just barely made it there in time.

Casa de Miel is really really beautiful. Strictly based on room size and design style, I’d even put it over my new favorite place, La Luna, whose rooms really are on the small side. Tons of storage space (clearly designed by a woman), tons of room, and for the first time in all my trips, the double queen room was actually a better room (IMO) than the king room. It had a deck that ran around the front of it, it had a better view, it might even have been larger, certainly brighter. So that was kind of cool, being the kind of person who generally wants double queens because I travel with friends. I might have to post a separate thread on Miel as well to show more pictures, but here’s our room:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67b241d7ab000000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67b257cbb7900000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS
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http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67b3f2fbb2700000025108Aas2rVo2ZuS

Yeah, it could take pages to post all my pics here; I need to do a separate thread as I did for La Luna.

Anyway, I raced into the room and by the time I’d greeted the Mariposas for a few minutes, Sofia was there. I asked her to wait another couple of minutes while I showered, and then we began. She was originally planning on doing shiatsu (i.e., on the floor with clothes on), but I really felt like something more massage-y, so we moved it up to the bed and she started her version of fascio-therapeutic massage (at least, that’s what I’m calling it). It was amazing. Gentle, peaceful, just deep and massage-like enough that I didn’t feel like I wasn’t getting anything out of it, but I was getting so much more than a regular massage. We talked a bit in the process, more than I usually like to talk, but it was all kind of deep stuff. And then we finished, and she asked me what time it was, and the clock said 5:30. She’d been working on me for two and a half hours!!! I'd had no idea of the passage of time, and apparently neither did she.

I paid her, she left, I dressed and went out to talk to the Mariposas again, who were right across the bridge. It was fun having neighbors! I felt amazing, full of energy, almost high, not at all the drowsy feeling I usually have after a massage. It was very cool, whatever it was, and I highly recommend booking an appointment with her on your next trip down. I need to send her an e-mail, just to say hello.

The skies started thundering, but stayed dry (just threatening), so we listened to the coming storm as we waited for Giddy to arrive. Just after dark, maybe 6:30, we saw headlights in the parking lot and went down to greet her. After all of our pre-trip e-mails, it was really great seeing her in person. Hi, Giddy! :star:

She was pretty tired after her trip, and I was worried about being caught in the rain (and was starting to feel more squishy from my massage), so we just went right next door to the new Hemingway restaurant for dinner. There was an open table, and I greeted Paola (who also seemed to remember me from December, and perhaps from staying for 8 days in 2006, but who knows) on one of her many passes through from kitchen to satellite kitchen (it’s in back—not sure why they didn’t put a door in the building on that side, but there you are; at least it made it possible to flag people down if we needed them). She did the Italian-style thing of no menu, just telling us what she had going, and we chose fried calamari and shrimp pasta, we’d share both. After a while, she brought out a starter, a grilled calamari, the tube part; not usually my favorite part of a calamari, but this was excellent, in a great sauce with olives. Giddy asked her, on her next swing by, if she had any vegetables. 10 minutes later or so, she put down a plate of stewed veggies. Not quite what we had anticipated, but very tasty all the same. A bit of heat from a chile in there, but mostly zucchini, peppers, onions, that sort of thing.
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A while later, Paola came and said things were backing up in the kitchen, hope we didn’t mind waiting. Shortly after that, the shrimp pasta arrived. It was lovely, and despite the heads and shells on the shrimp, it was very good.
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So good, and so much, in fact, that we asked her to 86 the fried calamari, and she did so without a problem. The meal was very reasonably priced, especially considering the extras (the two appetizers didn’t make it onto the bill), and really quite good. The new deck is great, giving much more space to the place, though of course it was too windy to be open that night.

We headed back next door to Miel and settled in to read and chat before sleeping. Great beds at Miel, plenty of breeze. There was a good storm that night overnight, but there’s plenty of overhang over the windows, we didn’t get any rain inside at all. Of course, it was so windy and cool that the windows were more than halfway closed most of the night, but still.

Some random Miel pics:

This is the light at the top of the stairs, if you want to turn it off, the switch is cleverly hidden in the pole on the side and painted brown. I know you need to leave it on if people your neighbors are still out and about, but if everyone's home, it's a bit bright to leave it on all night (of couse, I'm also an anti- light pollution freak, so I like darkness at night). Still, very cool lights:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67b1d3f3a1600000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS

The same light from the bottom of the stairs:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67b19813aaa00000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS


More tomorrow, time for real-life bedtime again.

[Lynnette]

Casa de Miel looks wonderful, and you should definitely do a separate post like you did for la Luna! Nuddy is gone and back to Paraiso.....that sounds good, but do they still play that awful techno music? If the blue beds have been replaced, that's an improvement!!! This is the best TR...I don't EVER want it to end!!!

[luvthesun]

Casa de Miel looks soooooo beautiful! Is there a website that you know of for these casitas? I looked on the Casa Magna and the amanasala site, but didn't see anything. I searched Casa de Miel but all that comes up is a villa in Tortola.

[beachreader]

I didn't hear any obnoxious music at Paraiso, but it was after 2:00, so I don't know if that's actual proof. I think they were playing reggae, which works for me.

[beachreader]

Luv, they have a basic page, www.casademiel.com (http://www.casademiel.com), but your contact will still be through Casa Magna or Amansala. I think their e-mails had the casamagna address.

I'll put up a separate thread for them, since they're so new they deserve a little spotlight.

[Lynnette]

Thanks for the CdM link & reggae DEFINITELY work for me too!!! Paraiso has such a beautiful beach, and now I'm looking forward to being there again! :)

[Lynnette]

Frannie, is Casa de Miel next to Casa Magna?? The double queen room looks PERFECT for a girl's trip. Is it larger than La Luna's Marrakech? How would you compare the bathrooms of both...deck space? I'm loving them both!!!!!

[graceland]

BR, I'd also love to hear more about Miel. I had emailed them through Magna earlier this year, and never received a response,so I kind of gave up on them. However, I'd love to know more for future reference.

One thing I like about Luna is it seems so "not resort like"; more of a beach experience that is very laid back, and homelike - with the kitchen available, the firepit, etc. And seeing a sunset from the back deck of Marrackech ( I am a real sunset nut)...really drew me in.

But, just for research possibilities and referrals for others, I too would love to hear more about Casa de Miel.
Gracias, Gracie

[TnTWalter]

I also love casa de miel's look. can't remember why i ruled them out....sigh...so many places, so little money! LOL.

[Lynnette]

I also love casa de miel's look. can't remember why i ruled them out....sigh...so many places, so little money! LOL.

And so little time!!! :D

[PhyllisB]

Lynnette, I think Fran told me that Casa de Miel is right by Hemingway, so it's a big further north on a busier part of the beach. But it does sound lovely doesn't it!!!!

[beachreader]

Yep, right next to Hemingway. And I'm surprised you didn't get quick replies, we had great communication when we were booking.

The only drawback to Miel to me is that their water is next to the rocky area in front of Hemingway (actually, I love that big rock; it gives you something to look at, breaks up the horizon), and we ended up with a bit of the Maya Tulum seaweed problem. In order to swim I went over in front of the AyJ beach club.

The beach in front of Casa Magna is much more open given its location on the southern part of the beach.

And I agree, Grace, that's Luna's great draw to me as well. I liked the guys at Miel (the managers), but the vibe at Luna is warmer.

[DougSR]

You know, I learned something from this TR. Compiling the whole thing in Word then dropping it into the forum is the way to go. No hijacks (even though I have been guilty). You get the complete TR in fairly rapid fire succession. Very nice.

[beachreader]

OK, I need to finish this thing, it's hanging over my head.

Next morning was foggy and post-rainy, a very cool-looking morning. The fog burned off quickly, though.
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We headed over to Maya Tulum for breakfast, checking out the beach on the way over, and there’s still a seaweed problem. Nothing at all like there was last March, nor last Fall when Minniemex was there, but it’s still there. Such a shame because it’s such a nice hotel.

We had a great breakfast; I had a poached egg dish with a creamy green chile sauce of some kind (it said chipotle, but isn’t that usually red?), really excellent.
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Giddy had the (again, more sensible) choice of fruit, granola and yogurt, which looked really great. I might have to actually try that sometime! J
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Good service, good food, great coffee, good prices. I like MT. There are a lot of people, though, all serious yoga types. By “lot”, I mean like 15 other people in the restaurant, maybe even 20. And that’s a lot by Tulum standards, but it seemed like one class had just ended so they’d all come in to breakfast. But yoga types are generally quiet, always a plus at breakfasttime.

It was windy again, but not nearly so windy as earlier in the week, so I just hung around Miel that day while Giddy ran some errands and had a massage with the famous Daniel at Mayan Spa. Mariposa had a massage with Sofia in her room for most of the morning. For lunch I sampled the tacos that Matt, the manager of Miel (and owner Melissa’s brother) was selling, and they were very good, made by a lady in the pueblo. For $5 US, he gives you four tacos and a bottle of fresh-squeezed OJ. He’s an OJ-squeezing fiend, that Matt, but it really is good stuff. I must admit I snuck upstairs to add some rum to the mix, but it was a tasty lunch.

Giddy came back sometime in the afternoon and we just hung around. Tommy (manager/caretaker of Miel) is a kiteboarding instructor, and he pulled out his mini-kiteboard kite to play with on the beach. He said it’s a training tool, to give you a feel for how to control the big kite. The little version isn’t so little, probably 5 feet long, and it has the two lines to a bar-style handle that the big kits have. Both Giddy and I gave it a shot, and while it was fun to figure it out, I got a bit of a crick in my neck from looking up so much. That little kite has a lot of pull, too; I can't imagine what it's like to try to control the big version. So we played with the kite, we played with Che and Fidel, the Miel puppies (such sweethearts, they play rough with one another, but they don’t bark—dogs after my own cat-owning heart), just hung around all afternoon.
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You can see a bit of the seaweed issue in this one:
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We decided on dinner at Ocho, and it was very good. Not perfect, but very good. We had salads to start (such a pleasure to have a full salad), and I had grilled snapper (I think it was snapper), which was a bit on the dry side, but the sauce, a garlic and guajillo chile thing, was really good.
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Giddy had the chocolate ganache cake for dessert (actually, it was essentially her dinner as well):
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On the way home, we stopped in at the Lamar shop so she could meet Sofia (and she ended up buying the greatest skirt), and the three of us had a very long talk about all kinds of things well into the night. I might have to move to Tulum if only so that Sofia might be my friend.

[graceland]

:margarita:Well I could tell I really like you BR; sneaking rum into the OJ; a gal I could hang with! Who wants virgin OJ on vacation?? (I would've added champagne; I guess you can find that in Tulum?)
As always, good pics and reports.
I feel like I've been to Tulum and am going back to visit an old friend!
Gracias, Gracie

[beachreader]

Thursday morning, Giddy slept in and I got up to watch the sunrise. In doing so, I discovered a small problem in the doors at Miel. They’re very artfully designed, but I couldn’t close the door without locking Giddy in, and she couldn’t close it from the inside without locking me out (not to mention that I didn’t want to wake her to do it). It’s a problem that I hope they fix soon. I solved it by using a skinny, breakable stick, so if she pushed on the door even a bit, it would break. I think that worked OK.
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http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67b5dd8bbe100000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS

She was still asleep by the time I was ready for breakfast, so I headed across the street and up a bit to the brand-new beach road (but jungle side) restaurant called El Tabano. It’s a cool little place right across from Hemingway and Don Diego de la Playa. I suppose it could be hot on a hot, still day, but it’s much more open than, say, the Banana place at Nueva Vida, which really is tucked into the jungle. And on this day, it was cool and comfortable.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67a7d589b3d00000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS
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And my waiter was Israel, who had been my waiter at Dos Ceibas two years ago, and he remembered me. Crazy world. OK, so he wasn’t just my waiter, he ended up sort of caretaking a couple of British girls who were guests at Dos Ceibas when we were out in the pueblo drinking far too late at night and then we ended up at a beach party and he kept an eye on all of us, finally making sure the girls got back to their hotel OK. He’s a winner, that Israel. I don’t know if he’s an owner or the place or just working there, I meant to ask and then totally forgot.

I had their version of huevos ranchero, which came with toast, delicious marmalade, butter and excellent coffee, for a whopping 40 pesos. Pretty great, though some fans of the more massive versions of ranchero might find this a bit on the light side as it has no beans or avocado or that sort of thing. Basically it was just tortillas, eggs and salsa, but it was very good.
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After breakfast I cut through and looked (was shown) around Don Diego de la Playa across the street. It's the beach branch of the well-known pueblo hotel and pretty cute. Basically tents under palapa roofs with shared bathrooms, but I worry they'd get hot because they don't have the side openings we had in the tents at Kailuum. What do you think?

From the road:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67b8928bb7b00000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67a78d15a1e00000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS
The bed inside. There's a fan in the corner, but as it's on the outside of the netting, I don't know how useful it would be.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67a63061a5c00000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS
The ceiling inside the tent was pretty cool:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67a66065ac600000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS
General view of the property toward the beach and their beachfront breakfast area, which is open to the public but has only fruit, bread, that sort of thing, no eggs.
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Then I checked out the Witch’s House for Minniemex, which is right next door (it’s called Casa Amor, maybe we can find it that way).
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Here's the big house right behind this one, guessing it's private:
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I ran into Giddy on her way to breakfast, so I just hit my chair at Miel and read for a while until she got back.

It was still pretty windy, so we decided on a good long beach walk as far south as we could go for lunch and still be back at La Luna by 1 or 2:00 which is when Rene had said I could see inside some of the rooms.

We made it down to La Zebra, and I decided to give them another try, figuring that the bad service on Sunday night might have been a product of the busy party night. Not so. We sat and sat and sat. It seemed to me that just as I’d be ready to suggest leaving, someone would show up and give us a menu or take our order, but it took a looong time. A decent lunch, mine was shrimp tacos, Giddy had the vegetarian empanadas, which, though we were told would be filled with “vegetables”, were filled with potatoes and cheese. Not that they were bad, just not exactly what I’d call “vegetables”. They served as good vehicles for the excellent salsas they have at La Zebra, I’ll give them that.

[beachreader]

Back to La Luna to check out the rooms, and I think Giddy was as taken as Gale and I were. Enough on La Luna now, I promise. :)

We headed back to the room and Janet left to hit the ruins before the end of the day. I spent some time chatting with the neighbors here and there, took a nap and decided that since the AyJ beach club was sooo close by, and I’d heard such great reviews of their tacos from the gals from the Playa board who were hanging on our beach that day, I thought I’d nip over for a beverage and a late snack. I wasn’t real hungry, so I just ate the middle parts, but I have to say, they were excellent! This was 100 times better than the food I’d tried there last year at this time (right after they opened), so I’m glad I gave it a try. I'd definitely go back for these guys:
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Much as I enjoyed the food, there was a big bus in the parking lot picking up passengers. I didn’t ask where they were staying, but I think they were mostly Italians. Seeing tour-sized buses on the beach road really freaks me out, and it’s happening more and more often.

After my snack, I tried to deal with my flat tire (discovered by Mr. Mariposa the day before but I hadn’t done anything about it yet). I ended up messing with Matt’s little hydraulic pump and made the bugger completely and totally flat. Like down to the rim, dumb me. Luckily, Angel (a Miel staffer, from Argentina) was an angel and changed it for the spare in the trunk, and while he wouldn’t take money, I gave him some books in Spanish and a couple of dictionaries for his teenaged daughters. He seemed pleased with the exchange, and this reminded me that I had completely forgotten about all these books I’d brought down. I’d have to deal with that in the morning.

For dinner, we really wanted to try Trece Lunas, but apparently they’ve been taken over or partnered with or something by the new Garden Grill, which is owned by Melissa of Amansala/Magna/Miel fame. Matt (Melissa's brother), of Miel, was working there that night, so we decided to give it a try. I had the arrachera and it was excellent, our friend Sakid had shrimp, also excellent, and Giddy had the vegetarian option, which I think was a stuffed, grilled portabella mushroom. I can’t remember what else was on her plate, but that mushroom was terrific. The lighting was too dark to bother much with pictures, but it’s a neat place, right in the little “beachtown”, right next to Trece Lunas, for those who remember that one. I think they said that Trece Lunas was going to just have coffee and desserts or something—the chef is the same guy at Garden Grill. I think.

[beachreader]

Friday morning I was up bright and early for my last sunrise, which was a really good one, but the wind was blowing like crazy.
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It was the biggest wind of the week, enough to make me wonder if my flight might have a problem (it didn’t, wasn’t even breezy up there). The water was all churned up, waves crashing against the rock in front of Hemingway, all very dramatic. You can see some of this in that last picture above.

I packed up my bags, said my farewells to Giddy and decided to head into town early to try to find some breakfast and get rid of some books. I stopped at the Alltournative shop on the corner across the Coba Rd. from the San Francisco. It’s a lovely shop, where I don’t even remember there being a shop, just an office. Luckily, the shop was open, and I brought the books in and asked the guy at the register if he knew if there was any way they could put these books into the right hands, either in town or in one of the villages they work with. He said yes, I wrote a note for whoever was coming in later, and I have faith that the books made their way out to Pac-Chen, maybe more than one village, and that’s all good. I’m just sorry I left it for so long and didn’t get to actually give the books myself, you know?

Starving now, and running out of time to head north, I decided to see if I could find some street food, so I headed down into town, and right next to the fruit stand, south end of town, east side of the street, was a little cart vendor selling cochinita pibil. Oh, that was a delicious-looking pot full of goodness, why didn’t I take a picture? That’s OK, they tasted amazing; nothing like some good old pork and pickled onions for breakfast!

And on my way back north to the wicked airport.

My flight was at 11:55, but since I was in first class I wasn’t concerned about lines, so I pulled into Plaza Santa Fe about 10:00. Because I’d had the flat tire, and flat tires are considered outside of the 0% deductible (beware, friends!), I had to leave my credit card receipt with them so they could put the $10 tire-fixing charge on it. I said, can’t I just pay you $10 and tear up the receipt? He said no, because they had to check the tire out, and make sure that there wasn’t any further damage to it and that I’d be responsible for any more serious repairs, like to the rim. I knew there was no problem with the rim, but I wasn’t in a mood to argue the point and I left it. I’ve been checking my statement online, and there is a $14 charge from them, but so far, that’s it. If only I hadn’t messed up with the pump, I could have just fixed the tire myself and never told them about it. Live and learn.

Because of the first-class line, I was out of the ticket area and through security (though security wasn’t real happy about the corkscrew I’d forgotten in my backpack, so I had to lose that, though it was new) in about 15 minutes, tops, so I had like an hour and a half to kill in the terminal.

I have a bunch of random pictures of Terminal 3, if anyone cares, let me know.

As I said, flying first class rocks, even if it is for a short trip, and I had a very good lunch (not as good as my breakfast by any means)
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb67b8f53bb0300000026108Aas2rVo2ZuS

, a couple of glasses of wine and a lovely conversation with my neighbor, who will probably be checking us out sometime soon since he really likes the sound of Tulum, at least as I described it.

We left on time, but circled Newark for like an hour, then sat on the tarmac for another eternity before being granted a gate. Supposed to be home by 5, didn’t get home until probably 8 and it was pouring rain, but it could have been much worse. It could have been snow, right?

Home for about 36 hours, then headed up to CT for sales conference. Boy, there’s a good way to kill your vacation buzz! And now here I am, twelve days after I got home and feeling guilty that I haven’t written it all down. So here it is.

[TheWindyCity]

Yea! Great report Beachreader! (OK..not thrilled about no pics of the peeps.) Enjoyed the sunrises and the food descriptions. Too bad hearing about Trece Lunas. Maybe Amanda is taking a little time off with the baby and all...who knows. Hope they will be open for our upcoming trip.

[DougSR]

First, you know I'm a sucker for beach dog photos. Thanks for those. Next, someone maybe on LG said the winds have been as bad as when Dean went through. Could this possibly be correct? If so, I'm not sure which is worse, torrential rain or getting sand blasted daily. Finally, going home is bad enough. But that Newark airport just makes me nervous. All you can see out the window is water, water, water, land touchdown! It's like you are about to land in the sound.

[beachreader]

You might be thinking of La Guardia or even JFK, both on their respective coasts. Flying into Newark you're just granted a fabulous view of industrial NJ. Though crashing into a petrochemical tank isn't too appealing either. :)

I've got more pics of Che and Fidel if you want me to send them all. I really like this one, but it makes them look really vicious. They're just puppy brothers playing in that open-mouthed fake-fighting way, you know with that back-of-the-throat whine/growl thing? Just wasn't sure I should post it for fear of making them look wild, but what the heck:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd34b3127cceb6633ce77a4000000006108Aas2rVo2ZuS
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And yeah, it was seriously windy. I don't know if these pics depict it well, but that last day (March 7th), it was so stirred up it looked like the North Atlantic!

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[Lynnette]

I'm as sorry to see your trip end as you were.....I'll miss reading about your adventures!! :) Would you go in March again? I've been told many times, it's the windiest month of the year...still better than here, though! Thanks again for such a fabulous and informative TR.......your photos are wonderful!!

Mahvelous.....simply mahvelous, dahling!!!


http://myspace.drewpydraws.com/ccimages/applause.gif

[DougSR]

Darn! Your right. La Guardia gives me the willies. Never been to JFK but Newark is like flying into an episode of the Sopranos...toll road, brick inductrial parks, etc.

And those dogs, they never stop playing like that. I caught my 6 year old lab and her foster brother playing just like that in the backyard yesterday. Those are some happy dogs. Do you still think need to bring down the reflective collars?

[beachreader]

Thanks for the applause (cool pic, by the way).

My trips are generally scheduled around work, so yes, I'll probably go in March again because I have to. I don't travel abroad in the summer because I play golf here and my house needs me to fight the weeds and such, but come the first chilly day of Fall I'm all about warm places again.

I can travel late October-early December, minus a week for sales conference and a week for Thanksgiving, and I can travel in March, minus a week for sales conference, but that's the focus of it. I wish I could travel at other times of year, but it's what I got.

[beachreader]

Those are some happy dogs. Do you still think need to bring down the reflective collars?


I never heard back from Matt, I wonder if I got his e-mail address wrong or if he's just not really a computer person. I know you pack light, but if you can put some big ones in your bag, you can stop by and visit and see if he can use them. I'm sure some dog somewhere will need them down there, so you wouldn't have to bring them back.

Are the expensive? I wouldn't want you to be out any money...

[DougSR]

I can get them for free from the chick that heads up Texas Lab Rescue.

[beachreader]

In that case, I think they would be a great thing to bring down there, and if they end up helping out these sweet (but very black and impossible to see at night) dogs, that would be cool.

Che really needed a larger collar while I was there, but Matt said he was going to fix it as I was leaving. Hope he did, since I could barely get two fingers under it even then and I'm sure they're growing fast now.

[PhyllisB]

And my waiter was Israel, who had been my waiter at Dos Ceibas two years ago, and he remembered me. Crazy world. OK, so he wasn’t just my waiter, he ended up sort of caretaking a couple of British girls who were guests at Dos Ceibas when we were out in the pueblo drinking far too late at night and then we ended up at a beach party and he kept an eye on all of us, finally making sure the girls got back to their hotel OK. He’s a winner, that Israel. I don’t know if he’s an owner or the place or just working there, I meant to ask and then totally forgot.

Haha, no wonder he remembered you!!!!! LOL! :) :) :) :) :)

Flying into Boston is similar.... water water water water....runway! The first few times I flew in there my stomach would always lurch a little as the wheels touched down!

Great job as always BR. You got so much useful info for the rest of us!!!!! We should have a separate post with links to all your reports in one place, stickied to the top of the forum!!!!! :)

[beachreader]

Have you ever flown into Telluride, CO? All you see is mountains and then the plane suddenly starts dropping like a rock. You still only see mountains until practically the wheels hit.

DC National has that water water water runway thing too, remember that plane crash into the Potomac 10-15 years ago?

[dionski]

BR thanks for the great report. Reading again and taking notes

d2

[graceland]

Bravo BR, another great read, and I loved the pups photos too! Thanks for sharing and all the good info. I have to admit this southern gal has eaten very little Mx food so before I "get gone" I will need a primer on what to order. I have no idea of what you were eating. I did see a few 'shrooms in there which I am accustomed to!
So you had a corkscrew; that is a good thing - means there are bottles of wine to be found! Any particular place I should store in my memory for purchasing a few of my own? ( I like cabs, zin, a few blends- thanks!:margarita:)
:):):) Gracie

[beachreader]

Grace, brush up on your South American labels, as they are vastly less expensive than anything else (Australia and US wines in particular cost a fortune). I had a couple of decent Argentinian malbecs, and one that wasn't so good, but I'm terrible at labels so it's kind of a crapshoot for me. I've also had some decent Chilean chardonnays, but a couple of really tart ones, more like pinot grigio than anything approaching my idea of a chardonnay.

So again, that's something I need to work on, but there's wine to be had at the San Francisco, or you can find a much larger selection (and probably better-stored bottles) in the big box stores in Playa if you feel like stopping on the way south.

I sort of hope that Cetli never gets their liquor license--it's so much cheaper to bring your own!

[John in DC]

Thanks for a great report beachreader. I'm still three months and change away from my trip, so I appreciate the mental excursion your write up provided. :)

[beachreader]

You're welcome, John, hope it was helpful and not too much to take!

[mayaflya]

BR,

Thanks for your great report, I know you were a little chagrined that you didn't get it up before we left, but I was able to keep up with the iphone while down in Tulum...it's not the easiest to maneuver the menus and all to post with, and it lacks the ability to copy and paste, so I didn't get a chance to let you know that I enjoyed your reporting all the same...

I didn't get further south than Zamas this trip, so I didn't find out anymore about that new restaurant on the cove, so you'll have to task that to the next tripper.

Great pics with the new camera, too!

[graceland]

BR, thanks for the heads up on South American wines - as I am leaving first of May for two weeks in S/A...so I will do a good bit of wine tasting!
I don't know my way around Playa, but you can be sure I will be finding it out before next Dec! I love shopping for wine!
Any other winos out there let me know where ya'll stock up for your wine cellars - oh umm... cabannas, in Tulum -
Thx! Gracie

[irishgirl]

Beachreader....fabulous trip report!!!! Well worth the anticipation! Can't imagine what my upcoming trip would be w/out all of you experts to learn from...would most likely be a disaster. Loved all of the detail and the pics are fantastic. Thanks for all of the hard work that went into that. Makes me nervous about having to post my first trip report when I return!!! Kudos and you should seriously think about switching occupations. I'm guessing people would pay good money for your knowledge about Tulum (be sure to tell everyone how horrible it is:)
Tracy

[AdGuy]

Once again, a stellar report, Beachwriter! http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/4/4_17_11.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZNxmk762YYUS) Thanks for sharing the great details and photos, Fran. :)

[AdGuy]

BR, thanks for the heads up on South American wines - as I am leaving first of May for two weeks in S/A...so I will do a good bit of wine tasting!
I don't know my way around Playa, but you can be sure I will be finding it out before next Dec! I love shopping for wine!
Any other winos out there let me know where ya'll stock up for your wine cellars - oh umm... cabannas, in Tulum -
Thx! Gracie

Gracie...I definitely fit into the wino category (I have the Total Wines and ABC Store bills to prove it). http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/7/7_4_33.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZNxmk762YYUS)

Fran is correct about the selection at the big box stores in PDC. We found both the Super Walmart and Mega stores to have a pretty good selection of Cab Sauv and Merlot. Didn't find much in the Zin and Cab Franc arenas but definitely kept us happy. On our November visit to the left coast (Ensenada) we toured several Mexican wineries. This area of Mexico accounts for about 90% of the production of all MX wines. Most were "good not great" when compared to Napa, France or Mendoza. If you have time you may want to stop in the Covi liquor store in PDC (SW corner of Highway 307 and Constituyentes at the light) as they have a very good selection and prices are pretty good!

[Lynnette]

I agree about Covi...we have found the best prices there, and they have a fairly good selection.

[Karen in OH]

Loved the reprort beachreader, great details and great photos thanks so much for sharing your trip with us!
Karen in OH

[Armchairshrink]

You always write the best reports! I loved this one!

[Lynnette]

I just re-read your entire report, and I'm having withdrawal symptoms. :( Do you have any more photos to add as an addendum?!! :)

[beachreader]

You mean even more of an addendum than those I already addended? :) Happy to share more, just let me know what area you'd like to see more of. Oh, and I know I need to do that Miel thread, maybe later today.

Lee, to get to the Covi, do you have to have committed to the local lanes, or can you turn right from the center lanes? I've always wanted to stop there but find myself swept by before I really figure out how to do it.

[Lynnette]

I'm so addicted that I'll take all you can post!! :) Can't wait for the completed CdM thread!!

[FITZ]

What a nice report! Thanks so much, I really needed a "getaway"!
How I wish I had joined you girls, esp. since my boss ran out of money for payroll last week!!! Grrrrrrrr...
I'm looking now for a decent flight, but don't know how I'd handle it (the guilts), w/o Glen. He's actually been travelling for his work anyway, so.... ?
So happy you had a great time and we're able to put faces on some of the board's members.
I'm glad Cabana's Tulum wasn't a disaster! We really enjoyed the patio!
We're trying for Xamach Dos in Nov, but Glen's boss isn't sure if it's "slow time".
Thanks again and I hope to meet up eventually!
Looking forward to the Cicero get together in April! Wish you could be there!

[minniemex]

Bravo Fran!! Great report!!

I can certainly identify with losing the sunglasses to the waves!! Lost my prescription sunnys to the waves last October!! You would think they would wash up to shore, but they don't. I even went back the next day thinking maybe, but no luck.

Thanks for checking out my house!! I hope I can find some info on it with searching, cause I would really like to stay there..... the only drawback would be that section of the beach it is located on!!

I have to say, as both you and Gale did, Cabanas Tulum is the best offer going out there!! If they just added some ambiance to the place and some different beach chairs (although, when I stayed there, there were NO beach chairs at all!) they would truly be the place to stay!!

I know I have missed something I wanted to ask, but reading the report all at one time was a bit overwhelming!! Like I said in Gale's report, I am envious of your time in Tulum, just not as much having just returned from my trip!! LOL I truly did miss the wonderful beach of Tulum though.

[mariposa]

Ok so, I know..I mean I really do know that the trip reports are over here and not over there but I was just about to plug in the last installment of mine and saw yours over here! I just read the whole thing at once and you really are the best trip reporter..I always swear I'm going to be more detail oriented in my reports (because I want to be like you..)

You were born to write trip reports and reading this really makes me wish we'd all had more time to hang out..Just a few (dozen) more Pinas..? Remember to let us know when you come to the snowy tundra. It's not Tulum but we could pretend...

[AdGuy]

Lee, to get to the Covi, do you have to have committed to the local lanes, or can you turn right from the center lanes? I've always wanted to stop there but find myself swept by before I really figure out how to do it.


Fran...I can't for the life of me remember. It's at a major intersection but I'm pretty sure you have to be in the local (far right/west lane). According to the PDC Can-Do map, it looks like there's a little turnoff to merge into the local lanes right at that intersection. I really need to sober up before heading to the liquor store next time! :)

[beachreader]

Ok so, I know..I mean I really do know that the trip reports are over here and not over there but I was just about to plug in the last installment of mine and saw yours over here! I just read the whole thing at once and you really are the best trip reporter..I always swear I'm going to be more detail oriented in my reports (because I want to be like you..)

You were born to write trip reports and reading this really makes me wish we'd all had more time to hang out..Just a few (dozen) more Pinas..? Remember to let us know when you come to the snowy tundra. It's not Tulum but we could pretend...



Thanks, 'Posa! Yes, we'll definitely have to get together in the Cities (with the Minniemexes, maybe?). I'm actually coming out in June, should be free the night of Monday the 16th. Would that work?


And Lee, thanks, I guess I'll just get into that local lane anyway, those intersections make me nervous ever since I was happily getting ready to go straight in the left/center lane and some guy buzzed all the way over from the far right, making a left onto Juarez on our green light. Boy was I glad it was broad daylight!

[minniemex]

Thanks, 'Posa! Yes, we'll definitely have to get together in the Cities (with the Minniemexes, maybe?). I'm actually coming out in June, should be free the night of Monday the 16th. Would that work?

Monday the 16th of June?? Sounds like a plan to me!! Maybe we should stay on this side of the river!!;)

[beachreader]

Yes, please! :)

[PhyllisB]

Hmmmm, maybe I'll have to see if I can find a cheap flight!

[minniemex]

Phyllis - I will pick you up at the airport!!

Beachreader - we should at put this out there for all around here!!

[Lynnette]

Hmmmm, maybe I'll have to see if I can find a cheap flight!

Or....we could drive together. :) How far is it from the far NW burbs??? I'm only 30 min from the Wi border.

[SassyGirl]

Loved your trip report!!! It rocked! Man, I wanna be in Tulum NOW.

[PhyllisB]

Or....we could drive together. :) How far is it from the far NW burbs??? I'm only 30 min from the Wi border.

Hey Lynette! I"m not sure exactly but I'm betting it would be about 6+ hours...

[Gale in KY]

Lynnette and Phyllis..you guys could pick me up at my sisters..want to make it a threesome? I would love to get to meet you guys and I owe my sister a visit. Good excuse..lol. I know where you cross into WI on 39..the last exit before you cross the state line is the one I take to get to Carol's house..I think it is Harrison Ave..or West Harrison..anyway, I could meet ya!

[BP.]

I'm late catching up, I know! But this is wonderful. Your level of detail is breathtaking! Thanks!
Barb

[beachreader]

Thanks, BP. Sorry about the thumbnail-sized pics, but Shutterfly "upgraded" their site at some point over the summer and all my old postings suddenly shrank to thumbnails.

[wildflower]

Beach Reader, just got done reading your Trip Report:eat-drink: great job and lots of cool information packed in there too.

Thanks for posting.