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ab1
13th March 2008, 02:48 PM
Hello all... been back a few weeks now, and have been sidetracked by work over and over, so I haven't been able to post a trip report. Finally got a little time, so let me try to get it going at least.

Overview

The basics. My wife and I traveled together (32 years old, the both of us). We left our son with my in-laws, our first time apart! I'll get back to that later on. We stayed at Cabanas La Conchita for 5 nights after flying into Cancun from Chicago.

La Conchita

La Conchita was a fabulous place. The Cabanas, from what I could tell from poking around different establishments, were among the nicer cabanas on the beach. We had private baths, running water (hot/cold), showers
and incredibly comfy beds. There are 8 total units, I believe 2 singles, and 3 cabanas split into 2 levels. We were in cabana #5, which is the lower level of the cabana facing directly out towards the ocean. You couldn't hear a peep from upstairs, no footsteps, nothing. I was a tad worried about that going in. We were around 25 yards from the water. The hammock on the "patio" was phenomenal for daytime naps and leisurely afternoon tequila drinking.
The people were all brilliantly accommodating, it felt very much like a home away from home immediately upon arrival. Of course, La Conchita does not have a bar, or lunch/dinner service, which is only a tad inconvenient, considering how many places near us had food/drinks. On the flip side, the breakfast was an enormous plus - fantastic, if simple, food every morning, at your leisure. The spread always started with fresh fruit, granola, honey, yogurt, fresh orange juice and good coffee. Then, the option of cook-to-order eggs, pancakes or french toast. Again, this was highlighted by great service and smiles, the staff was cheerful and genuinely good at their jobs.

Some photos of La Conchita (Unfortunately, shutterfly doesn't allow shared photos, so these are links to photos, I hope these work and they don't make you log-in, if not, I'll try to move these to a photo-friendly site):

notice the building to the right of the conchita wall - that's a small restaurant/bar, taking care of your booze needs during the day if you don't feel like stocking your cooler!

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcdecdbb0500000026101AYs2zJizYsU


The breakfast area

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcdea7bb6f00000025111AYs2zJizYsU

The Beachfront

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcdc7cbbb500000026101AYs2zJizYsU


Someone's very cool micro-rendition of the Tulum ruins on our beach

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcdc153aec00000026101AYs2zJizYsU


entrance

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcdc913a6800000026101AYs2zJizYsU


Food/Drinks

We did a lot of great eating - Tulum is definitely laid-back in terms of late-night enjoyment, but it makes up for it by having great day time drinking options all up and down the beach.

Our first night, we had a quick bite at Charlies, which was a solid joint, the food was middling for the trip (which is to say pretty darn good still), but its a jovial place where they play good tunes and the service is friendly. We checked-in then headed over to Copal for a few drinks. Copal had some of the better magaritas of the week, fresh juice and good tequila. The "swing" seats at the bar are fun, but a bit ridiculous, as you can't really reach the bar comfortably. Still a nice place with good drinks. We took off from there to hit Mezzanine. It was a Friday night, and we had heard it was a fun place on weekend nights. It's a quite chic, well-designed place, with a phenomenal vista of the ocean. It made for quite a striking appearance with all that upscale design right there on the rocky beach. There was a decent band playing some hippie/groove rhythms - and the bar pumped out drinks to a fairly young crowd. Still, this is a great place to go on the weekend nights. We left around 11, thinkin we could grab a drink somewhere else closer to home - no dice. Things certainly do close down early on the beach. I was told the Cuban bar in town stays open late (as did mezzanine on the beach), but never got the chance to head in for late-night drinks.

Second day - we had our first non-Conchita meal at Nachos (I'm forgetting the official name offhand). In retrospect, this was our best meal on the beach outside of Hechizo's. Brightly flavored ceviche was a standout. Quite a setting too (that seems to be the case everywhere in tulum, right?).

Some pics:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcd3227a4400000026101AYs2zJizYsU

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcd39ffbc900000025111AYs2zJizYsU

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcd0eb3a1400000025111AYs2zJizYsU

Another quick food note - just absolutely phenomenal habanero-based salsa in every establishment we visited. I think the salsa was the clear standout in terms of eye-opening cuisine across the area, just on a different level - everyone had a different take, but they all made me quite happy. I plan on trying to replicate a few after I grow some peppers this summer.

Have to go for today, I'll move on when I get some time tomorrow!

bellydancer
13th March 2008, 03:50 PM
ab1...you can post your pics directly from shutterfly without using the link...click on the pic you want to post, copy the url from the properties and when you come back here click on the icon that looks like a mountain (insert image), delete the http stuff from the box that pops up and paste your url and your pic should show like this one.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7d739b3127ccebbbcdccaac4b00000056100AcsmjVm0ct2 LA

PhyllisB
13th March 2008, 07:06 PM
OOoooohhhh, beautiful! That'd make a great computer desktop!

Ab, we're having a Chicago get together on 4/6 at a great Yucatecan place in Cicero... You should join us!!!! I think the thread has been buried but I'll try to bump it up for ya.

AdGuy
14th March 2008, 05:28 AM
Nice job, ab1...and so glad you found/enjoyed Nacho's (aka Mayan Grill). I can't wait to read/see more!! :)

TnTWalter
14th March 2008, 07:03 AM
:eat-drink:

Great so far....looking forward to more....
we're planning on Nachos and Hechizo's while down there!

Lynnette
18th March 2008, 07:34 AM
Great start!!! Another positive review of Mayan Grill. Can't wait for more!!

I'll echo Phyllis and invite you to our Chicago get together on April 6th. Here are the details!!

http://www.tulum.info/showthread.php?t=1794

FITZ
18th March 2008, 08:00 AM
Thanks for the report! Great pic's, too!
I don't think I've heard a bad review of Nacho's.

FITZ
18th March 2008, 08:03 AM
Thanks for the report and pic's. Hope to meet you at the Cicero gathering!

ab1
21st March 2008, 10:25 AM
xni-pec! I've wanted to go for awhile now. I have to look into that date, but will get back to you guys.

Thanks for the picture tip belly - much better.

ab1
21st March 2008, 11:23 AM
Okay - I'll try to get back into the swing today...

Ruins

We took a quick cab ride over to the Tulum ruins the next day. It's a beautiful testament to the mayan culture, and has been discussed ad nauseum on this board I'm sure. I'll say this - despite the crowds and all, I urge everyone to go, it is quite a site. A few of our snapshops:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcd63e3ac200000025111AYs2zJizYsU

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcd78c7ae800000025111AYs2zJizYsU

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcd69a3a6600000026101AYs2zJizYsU


More Food

The two ends of the Tulum food spectrum in one day... We went to Pollo Branco after the ruins, then Hechizo that night.

It's the best and the best of Tulum. The simple, delicious grilled chicken of pollo branco was one of the best meals we had in town. I believe it was $5 US in total for our meal. A simple half chicken, comes with rice and fresh corn tortillas (and of course, the ubiquitous, delicious and unique house salsa). Next visit to Tulum, I've made the decision that we'll eat all our lunches in town at the taquerias and grilled chicken joints - it's such an easy way to save money while eating food, that to me, was better that most of the food on the beach, especially considering price. Pollo Branco:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcd43f3ac200000025111AYs2zJizYsU

Now, on the other end of the spectrum was Hechizo. We made a reservation shortly after we arrived in Tulum. It may not be the best restaurant you've ever visited - but it's going to be an unbelievable experience. It's as romantic as a storybook (including the walk down the dark path leading to the restaurant), beautifully appointed building, and then a stunning outdoor area that falls off into the crashing Atlantic below. Chef Schober and his wife/pastry chef Ying-Hui are true pro's in the fine dining business, and I can't recommend this highly enough if you want a special night with your spouse. The food was solid, but it was the totality of the experience that made it special for us, the sound of the ocean, the moon coming up over our outdoor table, the timely service staff and then of course, the fine dishes. Without giving a blow-by-blow, it's evident that there the kitchen has plenty of chops, and the combinations are modern and pretty exciting for this secluded joint tucked into beach, abutting the jungles... Some pics:


Outdoor eating area (my face is not usually that red, fyi)
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcd4fcbb3100000026101AYs2zJizYsU

The drop-off into the abyss
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcd4fabb3700000025111AYs2zJizYsU

Watermelon-goat cheese salad
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcd4b53a4800000025111AYs2zJizYsU

Scallops and tremendous truffle-cream pasta

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcd48d3a7000000025111AYs2zJizYsU

the path
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcd57f7a1a00000025111AYs2zJizYsU

I'm gonna crunch a bunch of other meals from the rest of the trip in here:

Que Fresco - food was just okay for our lunch. The setting is gorgeous. Again tho, I'll give you a picture of salsa...

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcd5fd7a9800000025111AYs2zJizYsU

Empanadas Maya w/ pumpkinseed mole
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcd5d77ab200000025111AYs2zJizYsU

The worst meal of the trip was the italian joint in town, on the west side of the main drag (I will edit in the name when I remember it!). The pizza was fine, but the pasta and seafood was tired.

Another highlight was Taqueria Diaz. Fantastic. We brought a couple beers, which they have to put into glasses for you, and once we grabbed a table, they take your order quickly. We got some carne asada and some lengua tacos, and they were fantastic, fresh, grilled with a nice crispy char on the asada, and those who are fans of tongue, the lengua were that perfect chewy, but not gummy texture. I could have eaten here nightly and been very happy. Unfortunately, no pictures - too busy eating and drinking :)

We ate La Piramide outside of the Coba ruins (more of that later) - ordered mayan specialties of Cochinita Pibil and pollo pibil. Good service and good food. A couple pictures:

mmmmm
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcee143af400000025111AYs2zJizYsU

cochinita pibil
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcee203ac000000025111AYs2zJizYsU


Some overall food/drinking notes...

You really have to try the taquerias and chicken joints in town. It's a must - you'll get better value, and better food than any lunch you'll get on the beach.

Nachos was fantastic on the beach. It's a place I'll make a point of getting back to next visit. The first bite of ceviche is a great way to say to yourself "I'm in the Yucatan!"

Hechizo is a stunning and romantic place, and if you're up for the pricetag you should go.

Drinking: Try as many places as you can! Follow the happy hours if that's your thing. I was a bit surprised at how many bad magarita mix drinks I had, but there was plenty of great bartenders who made the cocktails with care. The folks at Zahra were among my favorite - great service and good drinks. Charlies was a great place to drink in town. Much of this will depend on how much walking you want to do - zahra was close and friendly, so we went multiple times for a cool one.

Coba

It's quite amazing to see these structure in the midst of the jungle - My wife was a little bored of the ruins (she doesn't get a kick out of the historical angle, maybe not as taken with the how/why) - so some people may not be into multiple ruin visits. On the other hand, I loved them. It was relaxing and sometimes awesome to walk upon the developments.

Some pictures:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcea1fbbcd00000025111AYs2zJizYsU

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bceadbbb0900000025111AYs2zJizYsU

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcea83bb5100000025111AYs2zJizYsU

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bce800bbd300000025111AYs2zJizYsU

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bce8c33a2000000025111AYs2zJizYsU



We were supposed to do a Sian Ka'an tour, but we became too relaxed and cancelled it. For next time I suppose? I do regret not going, but we really maximized our time sitting on our beach and slowly plotting our day to the rhythm of tequila and beer.

A few things I'd do differently for our next trip...

1) I will, absolutely, rent a car. I planned on renting a car, then backed out last minute. Mistake. It clearly would have saved me money, and given us a lot more freedom.

2) I will, absolutely, get my cell phone service changed or adjusted to cover me at least in Tulum town. We spent $70 in charge card quick phone calls to the states to check in on our son. I haven't yet asked my folks how much the 2 collect calls we made cost, but I'm sure I'll hear about it when the bill comes.

3) I'll probably spend one night in Playa Del Carmen. Just to have a late night carousing. That's the only thing Tulum lacks, and in total, that's a positive, but I would have enjoyed one night of debauchery.

4) I will use sunscreen. Being of Subcontinent ancestry and having no previous sunburn is no longer an excuse. My wife now calls me white boy...

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b8dd25b3127cceb5bcd5657a0000000026101AYs2zJizYsU

5) I'll brush up even more on my Spanish. Yes you can get away with knowing little or no spanish, but I was happy to use what I did know - and I used it an awful lot. In fact, I found myself remembering things I thought were buried underneath the rest of the rubbish bouncing in my head since my undergrad days. I plan on taking a refresher course, or just asking spanish-speakers I know to talk to me in spanish-only for awhile.


Otherwise, what a phenomenal trip. How relaxing, how beautiful, how fun. Please ask any questions you can think of and I'll try to help - as this site was essential to getting a grasp on the area and maximizing my enjoyment.

Lynnette
21st March 2008, 11:42 AM
Ouch...that burn looks painful. Your report and photos were wonderful, and I agree about eating in the pueblo at the small hole in the wall places. This foodie really appreciated those restaurant photos...YUM!!

AdGuy
21st March 2008, 11:43 AM
Awesome photos and descriptions (especially of the food joints). Some suggestions on the restaurant names: Il Basilco in town and either El Bocadito or Nicete-Ha in Coba.

I know what you mean about the Spanish thing...every time I make the promise to improve my skills before I return and every time I'm doing a last-minute cram session on the plane down!

Jana
21st March 2008, 02:54 PM
I want to go back to Tulum for the food almost as much as the beach! Thanks for the restaurant info. I'm definately going to eat more in town on our next trip.

beachreader
21st March 2008, 07:55 PM
Ab1, you rock! Great trip report, and awesome pictures, and I love that you focus on the really important stuff. :)

I love the food closeups, too. I need to do more of that next time, now that I know my camera will do it. Your food pics are almost as good as Windy City's, and that's definitely saying something! :star:

Welcome to the board, hang out for a while, you'll find plenty of places to give us more pictures.

TnTWalter
22nd March 2008, 05:22 AM
Fantastic! Thanks.:eat-drink:

HAWKEYE
23rd March 2008, 05:47 AM
Great report and pic's.:eat-drink:
Craig.

TheWindyCity
24th March 2008, 07:04 AM
Hey AB1 - Great trip report and pics, thanks fo posting. We like your accounting of the pueblo food.....not a lot of people like lengua, but we love it!
We'd sure like you guys to come and meet up with us on the 6th in Cicero at Xni Pec. Why not join us?

marjan
24th August 2008, 07:46 PM
Ab1, great TR, especially because I'm going with 3 girlfriends next March to Las Cabanas Conchita and so I've copied your report out to hand out to them at our next trip session - before the margs ;) ! Muchisimas Gracias.