SoKali's ~TRIP REPORT~ 12/2007

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

Well here goes........ got my Tulum coffee brewing on this Saturday morning ( I mean "mourning"!) back in Los Angeles So. Kali!

DAY NUMERO UNO:

We awoke around 4:30 a.m. (about 2 hrs of sleep for me) as I was packing and unpacking from a previous trip. I had taken a job shooting in Halifax Nova Scotia on that first weekend in December. However due to scheduling of the actors (I'm a photog.) it got pushed to December 5th just 2 days before my Tulum trip! :eek:

I will try and keep this Canada part short but it sure helps round out my entire experience...... if any of you remember it was a big North East'er storm that week and yours truly got stuck in Boston when his LAX-O'Hare-Halifax trip got cancelled as Nova Scotia was getting bombed by snow. Let me tell you the stress factor about A) making it there for my job and B) the worry about should I get stuck coming back....long story short, I made it! In about 72 hrs I went Los Angeles-Chicago-Boston-Halifax-Washington DC-Los Angeles-Cancun-Tulum.......!

We arrived a little late but it was a smooth ride to Mexico. The guy from Continental Car Rental was there with a BIG sign and my name spelled correct! Not even in the US do they get it right!

The car place is about 5 minutes out and there was one car waiting for us.... a red Hyundi. I was a little shocked to see how small this auto was and made a fuss for a few minutes. I had an upgrade however that car did not make it to the airport on time. They promised me I could change in Playa Del Carmen the next day. Once we took off I nixed that idea as the car was just fine....(Side note: we paid US $ and saved about $40 on a $350 rental for 10 days)

As one poster here stated when I asked about the changes to the area since my last trip..."Bring pampers as you will dirty your pants"..... he was pretty close to correct. FYI, my last trip was in 1988...! GOOD THING IT WAS DARK heading down!

The once single lane highway (the one with the death buses heading right at you every 10 minutes) is now expanded. There are traffic lights along the way, g*d awful speed bumps and rush hour traffico! When I saw the first of those Las Vegas styled Mega Resorts I swerved into the head on coming traffic. Uh oh I thought..... "We ain't in the Yucatan anymore!"

I sped ahead to Tulum and came upon downtown. At first I was a little lost as that road to the Boca didn't stand out at first. We looped the 'hood a few times and found it. Relief! Heading towards La Via Laktea was an adventure as I took note of each and every new spot along the way.....WOW! :eek:

The road was long and slow and again those damn speed bumps were wrecking havoc on my mini mobile! Alas at the end of the line a small lit sign told me WE ARRIVED! Made the turn and creeped up the little access way thru the jungle to the parking are for La Via Laktea.

When I shut off the car and headlights I knocked myself on the head as it was so dark I couldn't see my own hands! FLASHLIGHT people! The stars were just brilliant yet there was no moon. Coming from the big city one does not understand the meaning of "PITCH DARK!".

Bambu who runs the place met us and took us to our room. Room #3 an upper unit with a beach front view, huge balcony, and beautiful high pitch palapa ceiling. Let me warn any person thinking of staying in an upper, never have I seen a steeper staircase leading to a second floor. It was tree house type climbing with narrow steps and steep steep step ups. In the dark it was kinda scary.

We dropped our bags and inquired where is the closest place to get some "eats" at this hour. We decided on Las Ranitas and proceeded down the road about a few hundred meters. We walked inside the main lobby and a few guests were chatting and eating away so we stayed. It was very windy so sitting outside was not an option. Dos Don Julios por favor pronto pronto gracias were the first words out of my mouth!

The food was good, I had a local fish grouper and she had a shrimp dish. Great chips, salsa and gwock too! It was all good till I saw the bill :eek: Seventy frickin dollars! Again I had wished I packed those pampers! Uh Oh thoughts hit me again as the feeling we were not in the Yucatan anymore grew stronger.

It was bedtime for the two of us so we staggered back to the cabana casa we would call home this week and crashed... until the wind really started kickin and the rain came down like bricks. So loud on that roof yet kinda beautiful too.... I slept well, she not so well..... but then again I say "give me crashing waves, warm air and a sheet" and she says "double pane windows, A/C and a comforter!" :D Good Night, Buenas Noches dia numero uno....

[heenan]

We are staying at LVL in February so we are very much looking forward to the rest of your trip report! Heenan

[lazydog]

Yippee! New trip report! after Beachreaders statement about no trip report until New Year, I was so down. But now I have this to look forward too. Bringing the flashlight, I better start getting that stuff, we leave in nine days.

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

I have a weeks worth of stuff on LVL......! And may I suggest the mini mag lite......! Trying to wrap a few presents as I am behind schedule on the "reality" index......:p I will get up "first sunrise" sometime today :D

[PhyllisB]

Let me warn any person thinking of staying in an upper, never have I seen a steeper staircase leading to a second floor. It was tree house type climbing with narrow steps and steep steep step ups. In the dark it was kinda scary.

AAAAHHHHAAAAA! I am vindicated! It wasn't just me who thought those stairs were crazy! :) :) :) :) :) :) :) I feel so validated. My husband enjoyed laughing at me while he just hippity hopped up and down those things like he'd been doing it all his life. I got used to them (during the daytime) by the end of our trip but at night they were always nervewracking!

Yeah, las ranitas is nice but PRICEY, and anywhere that you get fish it's gonna cost mucho dinero!

Eager to read the rest! Did your palapa roof leak at all in the rain????

p.

[Jana]

Can't wait for the rest of your report! I'm curious to see how long those strong winds lasted. I think it started on the 7th when you arrived and was still going strong when we left on the 11th.

Jana

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

PB...., Us husbands do hippity hop to some things! It was not much worry to me but I kept thinking how many "I had too many tequila's" to get to my room stories are out there....! I would bet many a peso that some hubby's have lost there hippity and slept at the foot of the case...... face meet sand, sand meet face! ;)

Winds..... yes they were annoying at times. I was promised by many a local that they will last only 3 days, like a cycle and usually once a month. WRONG! They stayed around for about 6 days. What bothered me most was the fact we could not keep those big ocean view blocking doors open! She didn't like the noise at night and I got annoyed at getting "corn dogged" by sand on the beach as I am an SPF 8 oil guy! She also had a book which was wind proof and I had to bag on my stack of magazines. Otherwise it kept us cool on the beach.

[PhyllisB]

Yeah, those doors are a little odd... Kevin tried to open the second door so we'd have a better view, but no luck. Suenos did it right... sliding glass doors.... they were wonderful! I am still counting the days until they reopen. By the time they do, I'm sure the rates will be too high for us to afford it, though.

It was too windy on a day or two for us, but not six days! Yikes!

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

Day TWO:

Also known as "Morning One!"

So here it is... the anticipated sunrise! (sans tequila!)

I'm the early riser, change times zone and I still stand up 10 minutes before the sun! The other half needs 2-3+ hrs! So I snuck out the door and down the "Jungle Book" stairs and headed for the water..... it's a short jaunt thru the palms over the bright white sand to the blue green water. Dropped the sarong and hit the ocean......... :D:D:D

Looking back onshore all I could think about was just a short time ago I was in 19F weather in snow up to here dreaming of these very engulfing warm waters......at last!

I turned out to the horizon and here she came....... OH NO! The camera! Grabbed the cover up, raced back up the beach, climbed those stairs and grabbed the camera. Standing on the balcony the mighty God of Sun was awaiting......

A few hours pass, both up, we headed back to Ranitas for some breakfast as we still were not familiar with the lay of the land. The food was very good but again the $$$ was shocking. Coffee was 35 pesos..... Were we at Starbucks Mexicanos!

Las Ranitas is a nice spot as it has a great view from the patio of the ocean. They are building some nice shade palapa's as well right out front. We paid the mega bill and walked back to LVL. I will do everything possible to not riddle my trip report with some of the things that really disturbed me now about Tulum but can I mention "TRASH & PLASTIC" on the beach. It broke my heart.

Our wallets were telling us it was time t hit town. Somewhere there must be cheap food and beer. Can you say cheap snacks and a cold beer cooler! We also were hit by the reality you better have alot of cash as credit card takers are scarce. Back over the speed bumps we went to town.

Back at LVL we got situated for the real purpose. SUN SUN SUN! There were plenty of lounge chairs for the guests and not many people using them. I was a little shocked to see all of them ling the beach at HL and TDS. I kinda had a moment where I thought I was in Miami. Twenty years ago one would never encounter such luxury! I could do without but most prefer. For me it kinda ruins the landscape, the mental escape. I will admit though they were very useful due to the winds....

Weather was pretty good, mostly sun, some passing clouds. Spent the day loafing about our chosen spot.

Dinner was recommended by Bambu.... MEZZANINE This is a newer place and kinda hip buddha like. A little Zen, asian vibe. Nice place and great restaurant. Mexican Thai infusion. I think we would both agree the best meal of the trip. I had these great shrimp tacos. The shrimp was kinda battered ala tempura style in a very light way. A awesome salsa chutney of mango and fruit with tomato onion and cilantro was sweet and spicy! And at $13 a great deal as the rest of the menu again was very pricey. She had a green chicken curry that was super bueno! Anyone for Key Lime Pie! All in all a 10+ meal....

FYI... Mezzanine is north up past the road to town. A bit of a drive as we were way south. But then again what else ya got to do. Would be a far walk though at night.

Day two was now behind us, another night ahead of rain and wind and yes a few drops did get thru that roof! Kinda fun!

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

EL CRAPO! Looks like I will have to host images not attch. them...... sorry, wanted to see that SUNRISE GRANDE!

[PhyllisB]

Beautiful pic!!!!!!!!

We had the same thoughts about all the trash & plastic. :(

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

let the sun shine in........!

http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/8692/tulumday1sunrisekc6.jpg

Buena Dias Mexico!

[AdGuy]

Nice start, SKBB! Just one thing missing...PHOTOS!!! Come on, Mr. Photographer, only one picture across two days??? :rolleyes:

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

Coming Soon! However the last thing I do on my free time is take pictures.....:cool:

Have a GREAT HOLIDAY Playa Peepz! I am off to see the family and will continue my report on Thursday......! May your stockings be stuffed w/ gwok, your tree resemble a palm and your gifts consist of snorkles and shot glasses and beach towels and sunscreen and beach novels and backpacks and plane tickets and and and DREAMS & WISHES!

[pepper]

Love it!!

[beachreader]

Hola, SoKali! Can't wait to see your pics and all. I've just written my 16-page text in Word and am probably going to start my thread tomorrow, complete with pics. Don't want to beat you to it! :D


Um, don't worry, people, I'll be doing some editing as I post. No 16 page posts here, I promise. :eek:

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

U may finish me too it BR.....! Sorry guys away again in Santa Barbara.... be back home in a few days....stay tuned!

[minniemex]

Anticipating the rest of your report!! Hurry Home!! LOL

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

having a hard time between parties this week.......:D

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

El Dia Tres.....,

TANTO VIENTO!

On our third day of the trip, (second morning) we awoke to strong onshore gusts and stormy looking skies.....Here is what our view from the bed looked like out over our balcony..........


http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/1904/tulumday3sunrise1wy9.jpg

After watching the sun rise I decided it was more important to find my cafe' then go for a swim so I stumbled down the staircase to the piles of wind swept sand awaiting me at the bottom of the stairs. The sand is so fine that every night our bottom two steps would be buried in white dunes.........!

Once again I wound up at Las Ranitas as this was a for sure bet to have early A.M. brew..... Once again i confronted my waiter on his "VIENTO" theory which was 3 days maximum per month. I said O.K., day two so one more to go..... HA!

I usually had about an hour to enjoy the sunrise and mingle with a few guests from around the globe before I had to play "alarm clock" with the fiance' ! As my mornings went, I paid my Starbucks price to the waiter and said "Hasta Amigo"! Stumbling back down the beach to awake mi chica!

[Karen in OH]

So how's the progress comming along on day 3 :confused: , looking forward to more of your report please ;)
Karen in OH

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

Oh Oh Oh OH HI OH............. Paciencia Por Favor!

[Karen in OH]

OK I am now waiting patiently :o for more of your great report, thanks and GO BUCKS !!!!!!

Karen in OH

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

La Playa La Playa!

After a warm shower in what some may call salt water or "eco" water we gathered our stuff and claimed or chairs. What was nice is that the number of chairs is about the count of the guests and once you claim one for your stay most let you keep them.....

Here is a look left from our spot in front of LVL......notice our little seaweed piles......:p

http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/8381/tulumnomebeachzs2.jpg

And a look to the right which would be south towards the Sian Ka'an...............ahhhhhh, emerald green :D

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/4275/tulumnomebeach2hd0.jpg

The sun had made a nice comeback from what looked like a stormy day so to say we were excited was an understatement. With the rains we had at night one would wonder if we would ever have sun at all......:cool:

Here I am..., SKBB posing for Tulum.info.com........ Last & only "G" rated swim pic for the net.....! :eek:

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/403/tulummebeach3no4.jpg

And here she is my "understudy" composing an artistic self-portrait in the surf........

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/5664/tulumusbeachck4.jpg

For most of the morning we stayed in our state of sea vegetation and sand sleeping. I was on the look out for BR as a couple staying next to us had met her earlier so they figured I must be SKBB and introduced themselves. I'm sure we looked like the only suspects fitting the "California Couple" description!

I was not sure who this Beachreader was but I figured a woman walking around our playa may just be her! Shelly and Zack gave me the thumbs up you had found her and we spent some time chattin about. That Frannie was determined to get her camera and continue her detailed travelogue... I had a hunch our cabana was the next victim!

The winter sun was setting and one gets reminded quickly how fast a setting sun over land goes. I am sure the summer months do not get much worries but let me tell you, by 3 or 4 o' clock that sun starts to go rapido!

Our beautiful day was coming to an end, on BR advice we decided on OM for dinner which was very good. The service was all over you but they are anxious for business as they just opened. You can read great details in Frannie's report. Frannie, Shelly and Zack met us for desert, late night drinks and old fashion chitin & chattin..... the wind was again kicking as was the alcohol so we all called it a night...

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

TULUM TULUM!

O.K., in my memory lapse I forgot our quick trip to Tulum.......

As it was some 20 years ago on my last visit that I climbed to the top of the temple, let me tell you how dismayed I was to find out you could no longer do that......:mad:

I understand why but it still is a bummer as I wanted my girl to be able to see those spectacular views from above....

The weather was not that good when we arrived and we went up the coast road to the dead end and walked in. Our host told us you could just walk by or in and not pay if you went in this way. Well that was 7 years ago she said! We paid the $5 each to get in.

Here is a few pics of the site that day........

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/451/tulumtempweb3ea8.jpg

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/5905/tulumtempweb2jl5.jpg

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/4462/tulumtempwebgc4.jpg

I tried to capture some shots without "Touristas" and "Baracadis" as it kinda ruined (no pun) the vibe. And of course I did put one tourist to use as we needed that portrait of us for all of you looking out towards the sea behind the main temple of Tulum...... (They cut our feet off !)

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/6492/tulumljwebdk9.jpg

All in all it was nice to be back.......

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

El Dia Cuatro

Another Sunrise.......NO WAY! They just kept getting better..!

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/2714/tulumday4sunrisesr9.jpg

We spent the morning on the beach and I again had my Las Ranitas pit stop right after this sensational morning sunrise. By 11:00 a.m. or so we decided today was the day to hit the Sian Ka'an. So Cesiak was our first stop....

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

Cesiak

The drive from La Via Laktea to the Sian Ka'an entrance is very short. A half mile at most. The entrance now has a big tourist station at the entrance a mo' $$$ is spent now to get thru.... Some have said it is by choice but NOT anymore......about $4 or $5 now.

The road was as narrow as i remember and in better condition. Talkin 20 years here! We were looking for some so called tower at Cesiak and got a little confused. There is a tower a mile past Cesiak but it was closed as some part of it was messed up and not safe to climb. It was at the visitor center where we found it.

However I think some refer to Cesiak and its building as the tower and if you climb to the top level you can see for miles. It really gives you a great perspective on the layout of the land. As well as how narrow the Ka'an really is.....:eek:

This is a view inland over the jungle.......

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/5217/tulumcesiak1xi7.jpg

And this a view looking the other direction.... towards the ocean......

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/7062/tulumcesiak2bh3.jpg

Again, BR gives a good report on what is here. There are some really cool tent like places to stay in. Rustic for most including my girl! I coulda been digin it!

The view really was amazing so we decided to have lunch here on the upper terrace... Here is a friend who decided to join us.....

http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/9845/tulumcesiakiggywv3.jpg

As almost every day to date had been..... mas viento! That darn wind just kept blowing. And you bet your last peso I had been giving my waiter at Las Ranitas grief now as he promised it was "fact" and "legend" that the winds do not blow more than 3 days straight...! However there were some good spots in which to get away from the gales and still enjoy the views....

Did my waiter just say Taquitos y Cerveza....? :D

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/6338/tulumcesiaklunchrb8.jpg

Did anyone notice a taquito missing.....:p I would end up half way through every plate before it hit me to take a damn picture...!

After lunch we walked down to the beach at Cesiak. It looked very clean from afar but wasn't that much better than anywhere else. And I do have to report that south of the visitor center looked like H*LL ! Debris and trash from the storms have taken their toll. Not sure what can be done to get the "righted". I still can't get over it. Those beaches down there were so VIRGIN!

Because of this we headed back to where our beach was at least half clean. We hung out till sundown...... and decided tonight was the night to get our gringo(a) a**'s downtown!

We walked up down the main street of Tulum that night checking out the local flavor, vendors and happenings. We got lucky and they were showing the Mayweather vs Hatton fight on TV. Damn, that woulda cost $50+ back home. Here in Mexico they do not charge...! I guess they are creating a market still.

After the fight we went over to La Nave a Italian restaurant that everyone raves about. And they are right! We started with bread of course and a Caprese like salad w/ avocado. Everything in Mexico is so so FRESH!

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/7014/tulumlanave2mw2.jpg


The pizza is so thin and light with MUCHO SABOR! Here is a shot before it was too late.... my half is the prosciutto!


http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/4525/tulumlanave1on5.jpg


Great meal! We walked a bit after and I found myself a ring...... I haggled a bit from $25 to $20 but the couple who ran the shop insisted it was worth no less than $22.50. I didn't have much fight left in me so I settled. Should have paid $15 no doubt. What the heck, Blue Lapis and Mexican .925 !

http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/724/tulumringsb4.jpg

We grabbed some ice (every night ritual) on the way back to the car...... another day in Tulum comes to an end.

[mayaflya]

There is a tower a mile past Cesiak but it was closed as some part of it was messed up and not safe to climb. It was at the visitor center where we found it.

Is this the tower with the structural problem? It swayed like a cornstalk in the wind, but seemed fine to me ;-)

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/193/458880808_248f56f426_o.jpg

....and I DID climb it!..the wife declined...

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/199/458883728_5d0cf90bce_o.jpg

Nice report!

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

Yep... yes and si' !

That's it... when we got there it was roped off and closed...... something was wrong with the structure........ did u get to the top of it....? I really wanted to spend the day going down the road to Punta Allen but the shoreline was a mess and it seemed like it would be like that until the end.....

We bailed for our safe haven.....

[beachreader]

Great report! So nice to have a good report going, something to look forward to. Thanks for taking the time to do it.

Si, mucho viento por todo semana. Wow, that's a terrible sentence. I'm sure it's less windy sometimes, but last year it was so windy on my trip that I was literally sandblasted off the beach a couple of days. This year wasn't quite so bad, but dang it gets windy down there sometimes!

[minniemex]

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/2714/tulumday4sunrisesr9.jpg

Beautiful.......... hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm want to be there!!

Keep it coming please!!

[mayaflya]

That's it... when we got there it was roped off and closed...... something was wrong with the structure........ did u get to the top of it....?

I did climb to the top, here's the view to the lagoon:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2149/2178380348_07089d9a5e_o.jpg

and the view east, including the platform and thatch roof on top:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2129/2177588495_685b2e8974_o.jpg

and my wife, perhaps wiser than me:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2235/2178380234_993b9f0835_o.jpg

[minniemex]

I didn't ever climb to the top of this, I can say however that I crawled up!! LOL Boy, did it ever sway in the wind!!

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k83/Minniemex/Tulum/DSC01082.jpg

[BP.]

SKBB, very beautiful photos! And Mayaflya & Minnie, thanks for all those cool shots of the tower at Kon-Waye. The climb's a blast and the view is amazing.

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

Uh Oh..... I am losing control of my trip report..........:eek:

[mayaflya]

That's what happens if you take too long to finish it! ;-)

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

Whooooooooo Hooooooooooo ! "UNO CIEN POSTES!"http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/455/margaritawm4.gif Hold Your Sand Wagons Amigos y Amigas ... !!! More To Come Soon ... !!!

[minniemex]

Welcome to the senior members club - now you can use our secret handshake!!

[AdGuy]

Welcome to the senior members club - now you can use our secret handshake!!

I think that would be my cue. Congrats on your accomplishment, SKBB...

http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/36/36_12_18.gif (http://www.smileycentral.com/?partner=ZSzeb001_ZNxmk762YYUS)

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

Thanks! Gracias! Now only 13,000 + to go !

El Dia Numero 5 "THE ROAD TO EK BALAM"

Another day in paradise..., yet this one seemed kinda different. I awoke to a dramatic and ominous sunrise that had the feeling of "lluvia" and "tempestad" all over it.


http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/8923/tulumsunriseday4kp9.jpg


I made my daily trek to my claimed perch at Las Ranitas. I gave my waiter the evil eye as his Mayan Lore was becoming more of an "Ole Wives Tale".... this was 5 days of wind going on 6....! And this time it looks like its bringing wet weather with it!

I drank my 10 cups of coffee as the cups are small and the price is high so I figure this way it is only 40 cents a cup....;) Walking back towards mi casa the sun is breaking out from behind the clouds and is quite hot and I am now having a true "ray of hope" for good weather to come. (NOT!)

Well we kept hoping so we greased up with oil and made some sandwiches with the rations we bought in town the day before. We bought some bread from a bakery and some cheese, tomatoes and onion from the produce store. We were just about set for the beach chairs when....... RAIN! It got so dark so fast and my early morning hunch about the weather came to be.... this was not going to be our beach day!

Our host Bambu had mentioned to us a temple named Ek Balam which was another hour or so past Coba. She insisted we skip Coba and do this. She promised it would be well worth it. SO we packed the car, ate our lunch for breakfast and headed northwest on the road to Coba.

Coba is almost an hour away and it is a easy road to follow as it is very new and straight as an arrow. The signs to Coba are easy to figure out. Once past Coba it gets a little more tricky. There is a 3 way split in the road. Not much sign help either. Take the road that appears to continue straight. Not the hard left or right. The road gets rough there for a bit then gets better as it cuts the jungle in a single lane fashion.

You will then get to Chemax (didn't see a town) with another 3 way road option. There is a sign here and that day a military blockade as well. Of course they pulled over the "Gringo" with the bandana and Chrome Heart sunglasses....:mad: It was little shaky for a moment as I was asked where I was going and for ID by a teenager holding a machine gun. There was also a military vehicle with a howitzer on board pointing our direction. Nutty.

They searched our car and found nothing or "planted" nothing so we were on our way. Third world. Loco. Direction Valladolid.

Once you get near Valladolid look for HWY 295 going north. The next stop will be a small town called Temozon. There is a nice plaza and I did see a few tourists walking about but this is a remote inland mayan village. Here is a shot out the window and a good example of what the small town looks like...

Passing by the Church.........

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/8015/tulumchurchyy3.jpg

and a shot of a typical street scene in this small town.......

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/2047/tulumroadekbii8.jpg

We stopped by a little mom & pop or should I say mama y papa for a cold soda. They tried their best to sell us everything in the store but we just had to say " no gracias" The old lady pulled my coke from a fridge and we were on our way.....Bye Bye Adios Temozon...! Ek Balam here we come...!

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

~ Ek-Balam ~

We pulled off the smallish road from the highway and found our way to a vacant parking lot. There was a small stand with an old man selling goods but my coke had hit the spot and I didn't want to purchase any more unwanted stuff.

The head stone at the entrance looks like this......... a good indicator you arrived!

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/5299/tulumeb1yu2.jpg

We found our way to the entrance and waited to see if anyone would come to the front reception. Hmmmm, was it free? Not! But almost. We paid the small token and went about our way on a dirt path towards the ruin site. Not sure what I was about to see...... until this began to appear in our path....

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/5097/tulumeb2aa4.jpg

Right away I knew this was a good call......... thanx Bambu!

Here are a few more shots from the first/smaller temple....... coming around the side.......

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/2530/tulumeb5od1.jpg

and a view from the top.......

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/7206/tulumeb3tp0.jpg

Looking across you can see the palm thatched roofs which at first I found kinda strange. I was to find out later that they are building shade and protection from the rains on important art work and stone carvings. There were many men around cutting all these palm fronds and weaving roofs over certain parts of the site........ Here are a couple of roof dwellers......

http://img134.imageshack.us/img134/2829/tulumebpalm1yc7.jpg

and their buddies cutting and dragging the goods...........

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/8430/tulumebpalm2lh6.jpg

http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/3702/tulumebpalm3zu9.jpg


Here is a shot of the nice trim detail from about 1500 years ago..... how much would those stones go for on EBAY ! This is a smaller dwelling between structure II and the Acropolis...... I found the detail here more advanced than at Tulum. Those guys had the views but these guys had the artists and designers!


http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/7898/tulumeb4cz0.jpg

Walking towards the Acropolis you start to get a real feel of the size and scope of this towering temple........ Under the palms you discover the most beautiful carvings of Mayan Warriors, hieroglyphics, and the jaguars mouth which is the meaning "EK BALAM".

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/5152/tulumebacro1nz8.jpg

I believe the upper left area which you can walk up to when you reach the halfway point of the climb is the tomb of UKIT JOL AHKUL. Here is a link to Wikipedia as I won't babble on about the history..... and I do not have the time!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ek'_Balam#History

Here are a few snaps of the detailed work you will see..... amazing. And it appears there are workers cleaning the areas up... an actual restoration project!

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/4241/tulumebcarve1dw6.jpg

These entrances were all about this temple. At each you could get up close yet were not allowed to actually enter.......

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/4918/tulumebcarve2ll6.jpg

Looking into the JAGUARS MOUTH! This spot was stunning, the detail amazing and the scale huge.... off in the distance one can see Chichen Itza and Coba.

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/6951/tulumebcarve3hc9.jpg

Take notice of the warrior skulls at the footing.......................... ^^^^^^^^^^^^ somewhere in the mouth lies the tomb.....................................:eek:

Half way up one begins to take notice just how high and steep this climb really is. The steps are narrow and the rocks like lava. There isn't much room for error so bring good climbers/shoes if you make the trip. As you navigate each step the altitude begins to take view.... this is a shot looking down at those awaiting the climb... the "should we" or "shouldn't we crowd"......!

http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/5195/tulumebbigviewpk1.jpg

Now comes the hard part..., getting down. ~ VERTIGO ~ anyone! Be careful.... really. Climber beware! If you look at the above photo you will notice a couple whom we met once we got to the bottom. They were from Canada and we just started to chit-chat about the experience. After about 2 or 3 minutes of small talk the husband looked at me and said "How much did you guys pay to come here". I told him $2.75 ...... and the look on his face....:cool: It took him another minute to get his senses and said...."We paid $98 each!" The two of them got the info about the tour from their hotel in PDC.... and set up the trip. With 60 people on board and a two hour drive they came. Imagine what these companies are making. Do the math. A shame. RENT A CAR!

We knew the sun was setting and figured Coba was a no-go at this point. But we had hoped to also stop at some craft stands which actually looked much better than anything we had seen so far on the drive out. But that went by the wayside as the holiday Dia de Nuestra de Guadalupe" was going on and at almost every mile a jogger, walker or person on a bicycle was carrying a torch in what looked like a cross country relay. I can't believe we didn't get a picture of it! It was nice to see but made the drive dangerous as you must pull over every few minutes to make way.... they lead these groups with trucks and cars with music and horns...... Loco!

By the time we hit Tulum it was just getting dark and of course our neighbors had told us what a terrible beach day it was...... We just smiled :D .

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

We cleaned up and had a hard time trying to decide where to eat our last night.... we did some of the the fancy joints and the intown joints as well so we just said lets cruise the road... if we see something we like we will stop.

When we got to the spot where Zamas was we saw that a little shop that looked nice and had caught our eye a few times we passed by dring the week was still open so we stopped in. We bought a few items as it was our last night and then ventured across the street for what was only going to be a drink......:p

Boy were we wrong! We sat at the bar and a nice guy was working there and he made us BY FAR the most potent margarita's ever! "DON JULIO ANEJO" I said and he said "NO PROBLEMO AMIGO"

He just kept pouring and it made me realize that most places were ripping us off. That one drink had me more drunk than all the drinks consumed the entire week! The music was classic rock Americano and our bartender was grooving to some PINK FLOYD. Of course I ordered another as for the most part I am immune to "TEQUILA"...:D and the tunes were getting better and better and our amigo was writing down the names of the bands as I informed him.

That second drink sealed the deal.... no way was I driving any further or to town. One table please!

We had a nice spot by the water, some good tacos and the bill wasn't too bad either. The long day and the killer drinks cut our evening short as we also knew tomorrow was my ~BIRTHDAY~ and the wedding event in which we came was to start the next night as well..........

[beachreader]

Wheeee! Great stuff, amigo! :cool::D

I am now dying for a killer margarita, and next time I go to Zamas I will have to ask for one. I don't suppose you got the barman's name?

Awesome pics, of course--is that sunrise unretouched? That's an incredible color!

[minniemex]

It was little shaky for a moment as I was asked where I was going and for ID by a teenager holding a machine gun. There was also a military vehicle with a howitzer on board pointing our direction. Nutty.

That really cracks me up........ even more when you think about it!! I cannot imagine encountering the same thing here!!

Really loving your report and I am looking forward to the wedding!!

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

Trip Report in Progress

~Do Not Disturb~

[TnTWalter]

enjoying your trip report...you realize you started it on Dec 22, right? Are you still on Mexican time? LOL.

Can't wait for more.

:D

[Jana]

I wish we'd gone to Ek Balam!! I wanted to but we got sooo lazy - the two hour drive seemed crazy at the time. Next time. :) Love your photos.

Jana

[AdGuy]

But that went by the wayside as the holiday Dia de Nuestra de Guadalupe" was going on and at almost every mile a jogger, walker or person on a bicycle was carrying a torch in what looked like a cross country relay. I can't believe we didn't get a picture of it! It was nice to see but made the drive dangerous as you must pull over every few minutes to make way.... they lead these groups with trucks and cars with music and horns...... Loco!


We visited Ek Balam a year (to the day) before you. By far, EB is one of our most favorite ruins...and we've been to many. For those planning to go, please take SKBB's advice and rent a car rather than go on an "organized" tour. Also, get there early (they open at 9AM and it will take you about 2-1/2 hours to arrive). And, definitely hire a private guide (for only 300 pesos we had our own guide - an extremelly knowledgeable and personable expert - for over two hours detailing every piece of history, pointing out interesting details in the artwork, and answering our every question) rather than wandering about on your own.

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i317/FloridaAdGuy/December2006TulumPictureson16MB453.jpg

It's so worth it!!!! You hire a guide at the same spot as you pay your admission fee...

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i317/FloridaAdGuy/December2006TulumPictureson16MB450.jpg

And SKBB, as for a photo of the Dia de Nuestra de Guadalupe torch caravan, "ask and ye shall receive"...

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i317/FloridaAdGuy/December2006TulumPictureson16MB440.jpg

[BP.]

Love the photos of Ek Balam, guys, and your report, SKBB!!

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

ADGUY.... Thats so strange...... December 12th! Thanx for the Ad.... Guy!

OK, no more pix in my trip report............ and yes I know I am slow but its quality right! I just hate the downloading and uploading then re-uploading and editing of all the pix......... too time consuming!

Will try and get on Americano time...... nah! :D

[beachreader]

Those torch runners are interesting, aren't they? It must be a December thing, as they were running all the way down past Majahual two years ago when I was driving down that way. It's bad enough on 307 in the Riviera Maya (I can't believe anyone is safe on foot on that road), but down when it shrinks to a small road through the jungle again it's really unnerving.

[lazydog]

We saw one set of runners in January on the way to Coba, just a truck with a bunch of young boys and a torch they passed off, had no idea what it was about. Now I know!

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

TRIP REPORT IN PROGRESS

Sorry chico's y chica's I am back working on finishing this thing.....!

Do Not Disturb!

[beachreader]

Dude! Hola! Welcome back, can't wait to see what you've got for us now!

[FITZ]

It's very cold here. Please send more trip report!!!

[minniemex]

Just a little nudge - HURRY!!!:D:D:D:D:D

[beachreader]

He is a tease, this beach boy.

[TnTWalter]

FINISH already! Please.

:D

Really enjoying the report.

Trish

[Kenster]

Adguy and SKBB, I personally agree with you. The group thing is not for me. I prefer to do my own research and drive myself, working on my own timetable. A lot cheaper, too. But to be fair, realistically the difference in SKBB's cost for the ruins vs the Canadian's was far less than $98 vs $2.75. What was the cost of your rental and insurance and gas for the day? Whether you had a guide or not, I betcha the folks on the tour bus did. For his $98 he got not only admission and a guided tour of the ruins, but also guided, knowledgable commentary along the entire route with stories, history, and anecdotes from a professional guide. They most likely had a very nice, included lunch. And they traveled in great comfort in a nice, air conditioned coach with a professional doing all the driving, allowing them to sit back and see the sights along the way.
The fact is, these touring companies provide a service even if it seems expensive. Without tours like this, many people (not the sort of independent travelers like we members of this message board) would never see anything of the world beyone the gates and walls of their all inclusive resorts.

[AdGuy]

Without tours like this, many people (not the sort of independent travelers like we members of this message board) would never see anything of the world beyond the gates and walls of their all inclusive resorts.


Kenster...you say that like it's a bad thing! I look at it as more elbow room for us adventurous types!!! :D:D

[TnTWalter]

deleted

[digummm]

Fantastic trip report thanks man!


diggs

[SoKaliBeachBoy]

Me feelin muey ashamo........ :twocents:

Hi guys, been away with reality, my month of escape last December seems but a distant memory..... Will do my best in the coming week to complete this... more to tell.

Hasta la peepz!!

New emoticons!