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austxdan
27th June 2007, 06:20 AM
Day 2 - May 20, 2007 - Our Anniversary


I awoke just before 6:00 am, as the lightening sky was just beginning to brighten our room. Well rested, I let Chris sleep (it WAS our anniversary, so consider this the first of your presents, babe) grabbed the camera and walked out onto the beach. I planted my butt in the sand, and waited to get the first sunrise pictures of the trip.
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Figure 8 - May 20, early am

But I had this feeling I was not alone . . .
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Figure 9 - Flock of Seag . . . nope, Pelicans

No, it wasn't just the birds, something or rather someone else was watching me. Finally, she came over and said "Hi". She was a local gal, rather scantily attired with a "barely there" top. She came across as someone who just wanted to have fun without any attachments, and although I never did quite grasp her name she came across as quite playful. She would throughout this trip become known as "my girlfriend".

And here she is:
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Figure 10 - My girlfriend

This gal turned up on and off throughout our stay. She was actually quite the "crabber", as after I had checked on the status of Mr. Sun I turned back to find my gal up to her shoulders in the sand.

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Figure 11 - Crabbin'

Finally the sun made its appearance, and I was able to snag a few good shots.

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Figure 12 - Mr. Sun

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Figure 13 - ditto

Since it was our anniversary, today was a bona-fide "vegemitate day". I had secret plans for dinner that Chris knew nothing about, but during the day we were gonna lay on the beach, relax, and just enjoy the day. In order to minimize our actual movement we decided we would start out with breakfast at Tita's. We walked over about 7:40 and were told they don't open until 8:00. I wanted some coffee, and they were nice enough to give us a couple of mugs to take back to our cabana until they were ready to serve. This was a nice touch, so we sat in our porch chairs and read our books for a little while until breakfast was open.

Tita's has fantastic coffee and orange juice. We remember this from last year when after being served juice from a box where we were staying, we stopped on down during a morning hike. We recalled the fresh OJ that was served here, and of course now a year later we had to indulge ourselves again. Mmmm - a nice breeze, fresh orange juice, and a big mug of hot coffee. Yup - the anniversary is starting out nice. We ordered and I decided to go with a mayan favorite - the juevos motulenos. In a nutshell this is eggs, peas, and tomato sauce over tortillas. And it looks just like this:
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Figure 14 - Motulenos

Chris, being the good dietitian that she is ordered the yogurt/granola/fruit dish. I must admit that this looked quite tasty as well. It just didn't appease my "I'm on vacation and want to eat bad stuff" taste that I had in my head this morning. I would try some later on though.

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Figure 15 - Healthy Breakfast

After breakfast I dragged a couple of chairs over under the palapa closest to our cabana on the beach. There isn't any "towel game" here at Tita's, as I didn't even think the place was filled up yet. I asked the maid if we could take our towels to the beach, and she responded by getting us a couple of larger, striped beach towels from back at the office. This kind of "going the extra mile" stuff is really making the beginning of our stay quite nice.

So onto the beach, for a day of relaxing, swimming, reading and of course journaling for our upcoming trip reports.

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Figure 16 - Chris journaling

As you can see we packed a couple of inflatable floats to use primarily as cushions for the wooden beach loungers. This was a great idea and muchly appreciated by my butt. Thanks Chris! It took a day or so to get both of them blown up, so I had "numb butt" for a little while the first day. As you can see above, we blew up Chris' float first. I guess it was her idea in the first place.

Tim and Susy stopped down for a little bit to visit with us. They were checking out tomorrow so we arranged to pick them up at Cabanas Tulum in the morning and head on up to Akumal together. Tim and I got a couple of "morning beers" and we all chatted around our palapa for a while.

After Susy and Tim left to go back to their hotel we were hungry and decided to go for our daily "snack run". This time we headed south and ended up at Las Ranitas. Rather than eat on the beach as we did last year, it was hot so we decided to stay up at their little outside lunch patio place area and eat there. We of course, had to try their guac.

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Figure 17 - Las Ranitas Guac

It's decent, but nothing special. They do, however, bring a side dish of some verrry tasty pico de gallo. Once you mix all that into the guac, the flavor really gets going.

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Figure 18 - Awesome Pico de Gallo

They also brought out some "salsa picante", which literally translates to "hot sauce". Now this is not like that red Pace stuff you get in a plastic bottle here in the states, no indeed. This salsa was tan in color and the consistency of a smooth paste. The waitress warned us that it 'hay mucho calor' so on her word I just touched my fork into it and put a little dab on my tongue. OMG !!!!! She smiled and said (through Chris, my interpreter) that our one bowl of salsa was big enough for the entire hotel to share. And she wasn't kidding. Yup - we left that out of the guacamole.

We also ordered some black bean nachos. These were quite tasty, and also very filling. It took me two cervezas to be able to help do my part to consume this big plate of nachos.

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Figure 19 - Black bean nachos

Stuffed and happy, we proceeded back up the beach to Tita's. Along the way we found a wallet washed up on the beach. There was money and identification inside, someone from Mexico. So we brought it to the beach bar it washed up near (el Viejo y el Mar?) and told the bartender where we found it. He said the guy was from one of the northern Mexican states and tried to give the wallet back to us. Chris told him that "No, he was to hold it in case anyone came looking for it". And then we walked away. I think the bartender was stunned, but this wallet was no longer our concern.

Once back at Tita Tulum Chris laid down for a nap, and I sat on our patio and read. Relaxation was in order as we had dinner reservations for 8:30.

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Figure 20 - Chillin' before dinner


(to be continued)

austxdan
27th June 2007, 06:21 AM
Before I get into our dinner, a little background info is required. I have read about this place at the extreme southern end of the Tulum beach road called "Hechizo". It is rumored to be fantastic. Stefan and Hui run the restaurant. The stories I heard are that Stefan rises even earlier than we do in the morning in order to drive up to Playa del Carmen and buy fresh ingredients for the dishes he will prepare that evening. When you go in you don't get a menu per-se, but Stefan "presents" the options and you choose. Mmm. But now for the bad news. Because of low season, the restaurant closes to the public on May 12th. So I had sent an email to Hechizo to inquire as to whether they would be open on May 20. Hui replied that they were awaiting confirmation of a wedding party that was booking the restaurant on that day. If the party confirmed, they would also open to the public. Things were looking up.

About a week before we were to leave Texas, I was getting a little worried as I had not heard back. So I sent another note checking on the status of the wedding party. Hui replied back that our reservation was set for May 20 at 8:30 PM. Score! I have a kick-@ss place to have our anniversary dinner. Woo-Hoo!

Now Hechizo is all of about 2 kilometers south of Tita Tulum, and Hui had emailed directions to us already so it would seem that getting to the restaurant would be no problem, si? Well 8:30 in May in Tulum is already quite dark. So we took off south in our little VW and carefully bounded over unmarked topes, and snaked around pitch black curves. We were supposed to look for some tiki-torches and a bunch of flags. So in the dark we passed some other hotels, Pablo Escobar's place, and shot right past the tiki-torches. I hit the breaks and backed up and then we realized the sign. Turning in we wandered through a beautifully lush green driveway. I was careful to keep the VW on the two ruts that guided us in. We parked and walked across an immaculate lawn with clay stepping stones until we entered an open reception area with a giant fish tank. Catch of the day? Nope, but still beautiful.

We were greeted in the reception area by Stefan, who instructed us to sit wherever we wanted. The layout of the restaurant is sort of a sweeping curved room, and since there was only one other couple that we saw off to the right, I decided to guide us to our privacy over to the left. Some workers opened the windows right in front of us and we could hear the surf hitting the shore just past the trees lining a courtyard just outside. For drinks Chris ordered a sundowner, which was sort of a pina colada on the rocks. After yesterday's margaritas I think she would have chosen anything without tequila in it. Me, I chose a passion margarita. In Mexico you can never have too much tequila in my book.

Remember how I said that we chose the left side of the restaurant in order to gain our privacy and not to invade the privacy of the only other visible customers. Well about 15 minutes after we sat down, another couple came in and sat at the table directly in back of us. They were the kind of folks that carry on conversations not only for their own benefit, but apparently like others in the room to hear them as well. And what do we hear? That they are from Austin, TX. Go figure. We travel 1500 miles to have a nice romantic anniversary dinner just off the beach/jungle of the Yucatan only to have a couple of loud folks from Austin follow us down. Oh well.

Eventually Stefan comes back by and "presents" the selections for this evening. I won't even attempt to describe things as he did as the man truly has a gift. He could make a pb & j sound gourmet if you gave him the time. We make our selections and Stefan retreats to the kitchen to put his team to work.

"Appetizers" here are sort of like your salad course at other restaurants. Chris starts off with 'watermelon topped with grilled goat cheese' on watercress. Mmmm - the watermelon was so juicy, and the goat cheese was a very nice complimentary flavor. I had the Avocado crab dip served on fresh radicchio. This was made with real crabmeat. No imitation cod-fish were harmed in the making of this crab dip. I could have made a meal out of this salad. But there was more.

For dinner I have now switched to wine, a nice merlot I believe. Ok, I'm not really sure because I didn't right it down, but let's just say merlot. But before our dinner came out we were each brought out a plate with a single prawn on it. It sort of seemed like overkill, but was a nice touch. We also were brought out some fresh warm bread. Very tasty indeed. Now Chris' dinner comes out. She had ordered the lobster and mashed potatoes. A very large lobster tail is brought out and the potatoes were great. I had ordered the Ahi tuna on a bed of hicama with mandarin oranges, and other stuff. Needless to say we were both extremely pleased with our selections and were quite stuffed afterwards. But were we too stuffed to skip dessert? Don't be silly.

For dessert Chris orders the Ginseng tea. To go with this she ordered the chocolate cake with coffee bean glaze and coconut ice cream. She let me taste some, and it was nummy. Big surprise that my gal orders chocolate eh? Nah. I started with a big ol' French press coff-ay. This went along nicely with my warm almond cake with a fresh apricot center and vanilla ice cream. Of course to make room for my coffee, I had to shoot down the rest of the merlot. Probably not the way merlot is to be sipped, but it worked for me.

After our desserts we realized that we were the only ones left in the restaurant. Even the loudmouths had left. So as we tried in vain to digest, we struck up a conversation with Stefan. Come to think of it we hadn't seen his wife Hui all evening. I mentioned I'm glad that the wedding party confirmed so that we were able to enjoy our anniversary at his restaurant. I was quite surprised when he said that they had canceled. There was a small gathering in a room around the corner at the other end of the restaurant we had just assumed was the wedding party. This was merely another group of about 6 ladies out for a nice dinner. So with them, the couple there before us, the loud folks, and us there were only 12 folks in for dinner that night. I told Stefan that we felt bad for him, and he explained that it was better this way because Hui had to stay home with a sick child, and Stefan would have had a difficult time by himself if our 12 AND a wedding party of 35 had shown up. So all in all it worked out just fine.

On the way back to Tita's we had a little more fun. I was enjoying our romantic dinner with a nice mellow wine glow. Methinks Chris was quite relaxed as well. I proceeded to carefully navigate the topes, curves, etc. when I hear Chris say "Parayso". I ask "What?" and she repeats "Parayso - with a 'Y' ". I'm like "why did you say that", and she replies "We just passed it". I remember that name as the name of the hotel that is just north of us on the beach. Slowly putting 2 and 2 together I realized that we just passed our driveway to Tita's. We had actually made it all the way up to Cabanas Tulum and then turned around to head back to Tita's. It seems that Tita Tulum only places their road sign so that you can see it if you are heading South, hence we had missed it on our return North from Hechizo. We pulled up and were greeted to surprise #2. Since it was just passed 11:00 PM, the gate to Tita was closed with a chain across it. Luckily the chain was not locked, just looped around the gate. Chris offered to get out of the car and undo the chain, and open the gate. I pulled through and then went up to the parking place near the restaurant. As I get out I realize that all the lights are out and its pitch dark in the parking lot. I quickly run with a flashlight toward a somewhat perturbed Chris whom I left in the dark about 50 feet back. We both laughed at this somewhat chaotic end to our romantic 7th anniversary dinner.

One last note about our dinner - I took no pictures of our food for a change. For our sake, and the sake of those around us enjoying a romantic meal, I kept the flash camera off this evening.

And so was the end of our 7th anniversary day. Tomorrow we head up to Akumal.

minniemex
27th June 2007, 06:55 AM
Reading this while eating my breakfast of "bran", made it taste so much more like cardboard than usual!!

I am so happy your anniversary turned out so nice - albeit leaving Chris at the gate was not too cool! I am not sure your overshot of Tita's was due to lack of a sign.:D Over the years, with our anniversary falling 6 days before Christmas, we have not been able to celebrate it very often on the actual date.

I love the fresh salsa "Pico de Gallo", I have to say that is my fav when we are down there.

I can hardly wait for more!!

Great sunrises - can't get enough!!

mayaflya
27th June 2007, 08:38 AM
Dan,

I'm loving your report...you're putting the more impatient types on this board to shame. It's definitely worth waiting for quality! I especially liked your description of Stefan at Hechizo...when Hui greeted us there this spring she told us that Stefan would be out to present the menu..."poetically". So true. The pleasures of life are enhanced by thoughtful attention to the details.

Thank you for your "poetic" writing.

Geo

Karen in OH
27th June 2007, 11:49 AM
Sounded like the perfect anniversary from beginning to end! Yea tomorrow is Akumal, I love Akumal :) Keep up the good work Dan!

Tracee
27th June 2007, 12:04 PM
Dan,
I am new to this board, thanks to Phyllis. My husband and I are spending our anniversary in Tulum in October this year. Your trip report is getting me even more excited than I already am. Thank you for making us feel like we are right there with you.
I can't wait for more!!!

Tracee
(aka Sputate)

pepper
27th June 2007, 12:19 PM
Lovely, lovely, lovely!!!

PhyllisB
27th June 2007, 12:41 PM
Woohooo! LOVE the OJ at Tita's. So yummy. I think the waiter was always surprised when I ordered 2 glasses each morning. :)

Tracee
27th June 2007, 01:43 PM
Does anyone have contact info for Hechizo?
Thanks

austxdan
27th June 2007, 01:58 PM
Does anyone have contact info for Hechizo?
Thanks

hechizo@bigfoot.com is what I used to begin my discussions with them. Hui was very prompt at returning my email. But do remember that this is the off-season for them.

Good luck,
Dan

Toni
27th June 2007, 06:28 PM
Love the report! Great tale and beautiful fotos...looking forward to the rest!

Maverick
27th June 2007, 07:41 PM
Great report Dan, and about the food pics:

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f155/Maverick68/homer-drool.gif

:D

AdGuy
28th June 2007, 09:59 AM
Great job (as usual) Dan. Love the detail concerning Hechzio!

Chris...get use to be "left behind". For our 22nd Anniversary, I looked at Jen and said "Here's your pack...try and keep up" as we headed down the Grand Canyon. I'm such a hopeless romantic!!! :D

SassyGirl
28th June 2007, 04:52 PM
Love your report, Dan! It's really like being there.